You can never have enough guitar cables, right? That’s both an excellent piece of received wisdom, regarding preparation for future pedalboards and amp rigs, and also a prophetically-true statement about the inevitable existence of faulty leads in your current crop.

Keeping on top of your guitar cables and patch leads is never fun, but needs must – and what better time to meet those needs than “deals o’clock”? Amongst a plethora of Prime Day guitar deals, I’ve pulled out five of the best lead and patch cable kits, from Fender to MXR and beyond, and all with massive savings.

But with Prime Day ending tonight, you only have a matter of hours to save before the prices shoot back up.

More options on sale

• Cheapest cable: New Bee braided 10ft, was $8.99, now $7.64
• Best value: Amazon Basics patch cables (6-pack), was $15.74, now $12.55
• Longest cable: GLS Tweed 20ft, was $21.99, now $17.99

More places to shop

Shop all the Prime Day guitar deals at Amazon

• Amazon: All Prime Day guitar deals
• Guitars: Save on beginner guitars
• Amps & pedals: Save big on fresh tones
• Accessories: Strings, slides, straps, and more

• 🇺🇸 Best non-Amazon sales (US)
• B&H Photo: Money off pro audio
• Guitar Center: Early 4th of July sale
• Guitar Tricks: 1 month for $1
• IK Multimedia: 50% off software coupon
• Musician's Friend: Up to 60% off gear
• Native Instruments: Up to 30% software savings
• Positive Grid: Spark Summer Sale
• Plugin Boutique: 100s of plugin discounts
• Reverb: B-stock deals
• Sweetwater: Big savings on guitar gear
• Universal Audio: Paradise Guitar studio $99
• Waves: Plugins for just $34.99

• 🇬🇧 Best non-Amazon sales (UK)
• Thomann: Shop the huge Thomann Music Days sale
• Gear 4 Music: Big clearance savings
• GuitarTricks: Half-price annual plan
• Plugin Boutique: Huge software savings
• Waves: Sale on studio staples

Adam Hall Cables has just dropped the Flipjack, a simple but brilliant guitar cable that could be the solution to all your mid-gig guitar swapping woes.

Some guitars are naturally inclined to take a certain kind of cable. Strats, for example, tend to favor straight jack cables, while Les Pauls much prefer angled jacks because of the position of their output.

For those who gig with multiple guitars – changing for tonal, tuning, or aesthetic reasons throughout their set – this small design quirk can be a nuisance.

Cue Adam Hall to serve up an innovative, ‘Why hasn’t anyone thought of this before?’ solution with the Flipjack. As its name suggests, the Flipjack is a cable that can flip between straight and angled positions quickly and seamlessly, thanks to a handy hinge.

“The idea behind it is as simple as it is practical,” Adam Hall explains. “Instead of having to swap the right cable when changing instruments, the jack plug adapts to the instrument. This saves time, reduces stress during live performances, minimizes strain on the cable and socket, and ensures hassle-free handling on stage.”

The adjustable TS jack plug has been designed and engineered in Germany, and is fully patented, featuring a PVC (Polyvinyl chloride) cable jacket and gold-plated contacts.

Each cable also offers an extra-large inner conductor (0.50 mm² / AWG 20) for maximum conductivity, and a tinned copper-braided shield, which helps protect against interference. The Flipjack is available in 1.5m, 3m, 4.5m, 6m, and 9m lengths.

“As an active live musician and guitarist myself, Flipjack is something I’ve always needed – but has never existed, until now,” adds Oliver Bick, Team Lead Product Management at Adam Hall.

“For me, on stage, moving between a Strat and a Les Paul was always a huge pain, and I’ve even broken guitar inputs trying to put a straight peg in an angled hole, so to speak. Flipjack solves this problem in one simple, reliable, innovative flick of the wrist.”

Guitar cables are becoming something of a hot spot for engineering innovations. Last year, Ibanez and JTC claimed that their collaborative cable design was “the next step in cable technology”.

The Adam Hall Flipjack is available now.

See Adam Hall for more.

NAMM 2025: Guitar cables aren’t the sexiest of products, but they’re a vital part of a guitarist’s day-to-day life – and a low-quality cable can massively hinder guitar tones.

That’s led to a new collaboration between Ibanez and digital guitar education platform JTC to deliver what has been described as “the world’s most advanced guitar cable.”

The “pioneering” cable is suitable for players of all skill levels, apparently, and is headlined by the collaboration’s new Glideline tech, which is being hyped as “the next step in cable technology”. But what makes it so special?

Essentially, it has been designed to “elevate signal chain and eliminate any compromise to your tonal identity” to transfer a super high-resolution signal from electric guitars to amps, amp modelers, and audio interfaces (just like any other cable, we might add).

The fancy new cable has been crafted with premium materials, including an ion-plated copper cap, special layers of insulation, and semi-conductive and braided shields to keep the cable’s core in tip-top condition. Each material has been selected and engineered for lower capacitance to allow more natural sounds to weave through the cable and blast out of the other end, therefore “unlocking the instrument’s full tonal potential”.

JTC tapped into its roster of artists to put the cables “in the hands of some of the world’s finest players” – including the down-picking metal machine Clayton King. That saw those players put the design through its paces via “extensive real-world testing”. So, though the cable is new to the market, it sounds like it has already proved its mettle on stages and studios many times over.

The Ibanez Glideline cable comes in at £40 (approx. $50) and, at the time of writing, only straight jack cable variants are available. So, if you’re an angled jack stan, you may have to wait a little longer to join the future of guitar cables… if it’s as good as we’re told it is.

Head to Ibanez for more info.

The Glideline arrival follows Ibanez dropping its most metal acoustic guitars yet, and the long-awaited arrival of a signature guitar for Unprocessed's Manuel Gardner Fernandes late last year. With NAMM 2025 just days away, expect plenty more drops very soon.

NAMM 2025: If you're a fan of funky colors – and, even better, funky colored guitar accessories – Boss has just announced the BIC-10A series instrument cables, which come in a variety of six colors, inspired by some of the most iconic BOSS pedals.

Color palette-wise, players can choose between orange (a nod to the DS-1 Distortion), yellow (the SD-1 Super Overdrive), green (PH-3 Phase Shifter), red (RC-1 Loop Station), or blue (CH-1 Super Chorus) – plus an added black option (MT-2 Metal Zone) for a more “traditional look.”

Aside from the aesthetic appeal, each BIC-10A cable is offered in a 10ft/3m length and features studio-grade, oxygen-free copper core wire and custom-designed 1/4-inch straight and right-angle connectors that promise “excellent audio reproduction,” “precise signal transfer,” and, most importantly, “lasting durability.”

Alongside the cables, Boss is also offering a compact solution for carrying multi-effects units, in the form of its CB-BM-S and CB-BM-M cases. Each case comes fully equipped with a rugged polyester exterior, a soft interior with microfleece lining, and a removable adjustable shoulder strap.

Due to its smaller size, the CB-BM-S has a single reinforced handle, as opposed to the CB-BM-M's two, and both options include pockets (in case you need more storage space).

According to Boss, “The CB-BM-S is a perfect fit for the BOSS GX-10, GT-1, and GT-1B models, while the larger CB-BM-M fits the GT-1000, GX-100, ME-90, and ME-90B models.”

The BIC-10A series instrument cables are now available for purchase at select U.S. Boss dealers for $22, while you can also bag the cases for $59, (for the smaller case) and $69 (the medium case).

For more information, visit Boss.

Let's face it – whether you're just dipping your toes into the bass and guitar world (pun intended), or you're a veteran with decades upon decades of experience, one category that doesn't discriminate is guitar accessories. Essentially, they're the cornerstone of every guitarist and bassist's toolkit.

From complete essentials like cables, straps, picks, and strings to guitar stands, capos, and patch cables, these tools are arguably the unsung heroes of every guitarist and bassist's setup.

And it doesn't stop there – how about earplugs for those loud rehearsals and your band's hell-raising shows? Or perhaps strap locks to prevent your strap from unfastening while you're busy rocking out on stage?

Every piece of quality gear means you can rest assured that – whether you're holed up in your studio writing and recording some sick tunes, on tour, or even just jamming with your bandmates in the rehearsal room – you can do your job without worrying about what's going to break in the next few minutes.

With the abundance of choices out there, it's sometimes hard to know which accessories to go for – and, most importantly, which ones are reliable and will last.

So, to save you the hassle of scouring for deals yourself, we've rounded up some of the best guitar accessories deals for Cyber Week – keeping quality top of mind.

Bonus!

When I was asked to write this article my immediate thought was no, you don’t need a different guitar cable for studio, live, or practice. Guitar cables are all the same right? Those $100 gold-plated ones are the ultimate snake oil and you should just use the one that came in the box with your guitar. Tone is in the fingers after all.

On reflection though, as I struggled to think how to expand this question, certain things did start to occur to me. You need a long cable to play live. A great quality, shorter cable is a great option for the studio. For practice, you want something that enables you to move around, but not one so big it causes you to trip over when reaching for your phone.

So, revisiting my earlier cynicism I elected to recall my own trials and tribulations gigging, recording, and endlessly practicing over the last twenty years, combined with some good old-fashioned online research, to demystify the humble guitar cable and all its various uses.

Does cable size matter?

Unfortunately in this instance, size really does matter. The longer a cable, the more chance you’ve got of losing some of your high-end. Jimi Hendrix famously preferred an extra-long coiled cable, precisely because it cut out some of that harsh high end from his monstrously loud guitar tone. 

The reason a long cable removes some of the high-end is all down to something called capacitance. Without sounding like your high school science teacher here, essentially as a signal passes through a guitar cable, some of the high end of the tone is lost. The longer the cable, the more tone you lose. Guitarists often call this ‘tone suck’.

Does my tone suck?

Think about your own rig for a second. You’ve got a cable going from your guitar to a pedalboard. Then all the patch cables between your pedals, then presumably another guitar cable going out to your amplifier. How much cable length does that add up to? And don’t think because you have a bunch of true bypass pedals that you're immune to the effect, because you’re not.

According to Boss, around 18 feet of cable is where you’ll start noticing tone suck. There are plenty of cables that are that length by themselves, never mind how much is going through your massive pedalboard and into your amp. So if you’re playing live, recording, or just practicing, you’re going to need the shortest cable possible to maintain your tone right? If only it were that easy.

What cable length should I choose?

In an ideal world, you’d have the shortest possible cable to your guitar, then custom-soldered ones for the exact length of your pedalboard, and then the bare minimum for the run to the amp. To be fair, that would suffice if you’re only recording or practicing, but you’re still probably going to be over that magic 18-foot mark. You can also forget about using that setup live.

Buffer that 'board

So if you’re gigging your local venue and want to keep your tone but still use a cable that enables you to get around the stage and put your foot on the monitor for an epic guitar solo, what’s the answer? You need a buffer.

A buffered pedal at the beginning of your signal chain allows you to combat the effect of capacitance loss, even with cabling around 100 feet long after the pedal. That means you can keep your monster pedalboard, and keep your hard-fought guitar tone no matter your cable length.

Which cable is right for me?

Of course, you’ll still probably want to have a separate cable for each use case. A high-quality, short one for recording. Something a little longer for practice, and then finally one big enough for you to get around the stage for live playing. I use a 25-foot cable which is great for getting around smaller venues, and if you need any bigger than that, you might want to start looking into a guitar wireless system.

Quality is a factor as well, but there’s a bigger gap from the Amazon basics guitar cables to a regular Ernie Ball or Fender one, than there is from the aforementioned to a super-expensive Mogami gold cable. So long as your cable is well shielded, and you have a buffer in place for longer runs, you should have no issues getting a non-sucky guitar tone. The rest is down to those magic fingers.

• Learn more about expensive vs cheap guitar cables

For most guitarists, a 1/4-inch cable is a 1/4-inch cable. We know speaker cables exist, but until you actually try plugging one in from your guitar to your amp, you might not be able to immediately spot the difference between a speaker cable and a guitar cable (also referred to as simply an 'instrument cable'). It’s pretty difficult to be fair, as guitar cables share a similar connector and look nearly identical to the one you should be plugging into your guitar cabinet.

In this article we’re going to break down the differences for you, giving you the reasons why you shouldn’t use them interchangeably. We’ll also detail how to identify each type of cable, preventing you from making the mistake in the first place. Upping your knowledge in anything guitar is always a worthwhile endeavor, so let’s get cracking…

Instrument cable vs speaker cable: The differences

Instrument cable

An instrument cable is designed to carry a low-power signal from your guitar, to be boosted by your amplifier. It has a high impedance because your guitar pickups are also high impedance. A single-wire conductor runs through the core of the cable, with a braided shield conductor that grounds the connection. Your instrument cable is also shielded, to prevent any interference from electrical sources around you. 

Speaker cable

On the other hand, a speaker cable is designed to carry a high-power signal from your amplifier to your speakers, as the signal it receives has already been boosted. It has a low impedance, which allows more power, and thus more sound, to be carried through. A speaker cable has two wire conductors, which again help with the transfer of power. These conductors typically have a much wider gauge than that of your guitar cable. 

What happens if you use the wrong cable?

As you now know, a speaker cable carries much more power than an instrument cable. If you were to use an instrument cable in place of your speaker cable, it might be okay at low volumes. Once you turn things up, however, that instrument cable will no longer be able to handle the amount of power coming through it, resulting in a build-up of heat in your amplifier.

Taken to extremes this could potentially result in your amp overheating, causing permanent damage, or even the cable melting. You’ll also get unpredictable results from the sound of the amplifier, including unwanted distortion. We definitely don’t want to hear that, and you definitely don’t want to damage your tube amp and earn yourself a hefty repair bill.

Going the other way, if you were to use a speaker cable instead of your instrument cable, the results aren’t quite as catastrophic. A speaker cable will handle the power output of your guitar just fine, so there are no issues there. However, as we mentioned previously, speaker cables are unshielded. This means that you’ll get a lot more noise, picking up interference from anything electromagnetic nearby.

This is because a speaker cable normally receives a very hot signal, which will vastly overpower any noise. With a low-level signal, you’re far more likely to hear noise as a part of that, hence the shielding for a regular instrument cable. From stage lights to your own amp, to your cellphone, when using a speaker cable in place of an instrument cable, you’ll be picking all of these extraneous noises up, and playing them back through your amp. It’s noise rock but not in a good way.

How to tell the difference

So how do you avoid the critical mistake of using an instrument cable versus a speaker cable? Well, most good cable manufacturers mark their speaker cables appropriately, so if you have a scan of the cable itself you may find something there. Speaker cables are usually thicker than an instrument cable, but this isn’t necessarily a guaranteed way of identifying them, as there are some pretty chunky instrument cables out there.

If your cable isn’t marked, then the next test is to remove the cable casing and see what’s inside. Many instrument cables have a screw-off plug for repairs. If you’re looking at a speaker cable you’ll see two equal-sized cable conductors inside, usually with two different colored bits of plastic housing. These will be soldered to two separate ends of the jack plug.

An instrument cable will only have one large conductor cable inside, with braided copper shielding running around it. Looking for this braided copper wrap is the most distinctive feature of an instrument cable. Again these will be soldered to opposite ends of the jack plug.

If you’re unlucky enough to have a molded cable, then you can - very carefully - slice the cable open to see what’s inside. You’ll need something razor sharp and thin, like a boxcutter to expose the cabling, and looking inside using the previous checks should help you determine what it is. To repair, simply use some electrical tape to close up the wound.

How to keep them apart

Once you’ve determined which kind of cable you have, make sure to mark them, especially if it’s the molded kind. Many guitarists use different colored electrical tape to mark their cables, others like to use tape and mark speaker cables with an ‘S’ for future reference. You could also use colored hook and loop wraps to separate them. Doing this is very handy if you have a lot of different cables, and will prevent you from using the wrong one in the future.

It's important not to substitute a speaker cable for an instrument cable, even if you're absolutely desperate. It’s really not worth potentially damaging your guitar amp. Take the time to determine which cables you have, mark them correctly, and you’ll avoid this rookie mistake in the future.

You’ve just spent thousands of dollars on a guitar, amplifier and pedalboard, then you go and buy the cheapest possible cable to plug it all in and get wailing… that doesn’t seem right, does it? For many, this is the reality of playing guitar, with the cables you use typically being the area given least attention.

However, this throws up an important question: does buying a cheap guitar cable actually matter? Or is it always worth spending as much as you can and buying an expensive cable? Here, we break down the differences between expensive and cheap cables and the impact that choosing one over the other has on your set-up, from tone to how long it might last. It’s time to plug in!

Construction

The actual construction of a cable won’t change much between the most expensive and the least expensive cables. Ultimately, a cable requires jack plug connectors at each end to plug into your guitar and your amplifier or pedalboard, with a length of conductive metal between, allowing the electrical signal from your guitar to pass through. The difference comes in the quality of these materials and components used during construction.

Any length of cable will have capacitance, which relates to the amount of electrical charge that it stores. The lower the level of capacitance the better when it comes to guitar cables, as cables with more capacitance will hold on to some of the signal your guitar produces, notably the high-end frequencies, leaving you with a darker, duller sound. Cheaper cables typically use lower quality materials in their construction that means they have more capacitance, whereas more expensive cables will be made of higher-grade materials that minimize capacitance and retain your signal quality. 

For the majority, this will be a negligible, perhaps even imperceivable, difference – though on longer cables, which inherently have even more capacitance, the gap between poor quality materials and higher quality materials will likely be more audibly noticeable. Given that patch cables are much shorter and therefore have less capacitance, this is an area where going for a cheaper option could be worthwhile.

The area where quality is, perhaps, most noticeable is in the jack plugs/connectors used. These are generally the most expensive part of construction, and the most expensive cables will have connectors lined with rare metals that are optimized for passing audio signals through them. They will also be more durable and less likely to break compared to cheaper connectors, which may not last as long and can lead to producing scratchy or crackly sounds.

Most cables, expensive or cheap, will have some form of shielding in their construction, which means a material layer is used to block external electromagnetic interference from the conductive part of your cable. Without this, interference can be picked up by your cable, which tends to result in additional noise or hum, and can degrade the quality of your guitar signal. There are several different types of shielding. ‘Foil shielding’ is among the most effective, but this results in less flexibility in your cable and is therefore prone to damage. ‘Braided shielding’ and ‘serve (spiral) shielding’ offer other, more durable but fractionally less effective, alternative shielding. Cheaper cables will usually have worse shielding, whilst the most expensive cables may have multiple layers of shielding. If you play in a band with lots of other amplified instruments, having a cable with less shielding may have a more noticeable impact on your sound.

There are a number of manufacturers that will sell you cable-making sets, so you can build them perfectly for your own needs. This is particularly useful in the context of pedalboards so you can build cables that are perfectly sized to your needs, reducing unnecessary mess and impedance. These kits tend to be much more expensive than buying a pre-built cable – however, if you are happy buying the components separately then you can bulk order and make your own high-quality cables for a budget price.

So, what are you paying for?

Most players will have had cheap cables at some point, and then one day randomly they find that their electric guitar is no longer making noise through their amplifier. After a moment of dread, worrying that either their guitar or amplifier has bitten the dust, it’s often the case that one of these cheaper cables is the thing that has given up. More affordable cables are mass-manufactured, which is one of the key reasons they are made so cheaply, and their components won’t necessarily be made of the highest-grade materials, which may not last as long. As they are so affordable, it isn’t a huge outlay to replace them, which is a positive thing, but not the most environmentally-friendly option, and potentially not as cost-effective over a long period.

Not only are more expensive cables typically more durable than cheaper cables, they may also come with warranties that mean if they ever do break, you can send them away to be repaired or replaced, though you should be warned this won’t include human damage – for example if you accidentally slice the end off of your cable. So, whilst a cable may seem cheaper initially, it is plausible that buying a more expensive cable that lasts longer and comes with a warranty could work out cheaper in the long run.

The appearance of cables can play into how expensive they are, but you can pick up some relatively cheap, interesting-looking cables (perhaps with a woven tweed-style outer material, for example) so looks don’t always translate to price. In fact, budget cables that are mass-manufactured may have more color options, given they can manufacture thousands of them, whereas more boutique, expensive cables will likely have limited options in the looks department.

Conclusion

The downside of expensive cables is pretty self explanatory: they cost more. When comparing the cheapest to the most expensive guitar cables, you could easily spend five times as much. Does that make your tone sound five times better? In all honesty… no. Perhaps in no other area of guitar playing do you see diminishing returns as you pay more than with guitar cables. Adding a premium cable to your guitar rig may make a relatively negligible difference to your overall sound, but if you are striving for perfection, with the best boutique amplifier and a luthier-built guitar, why would you let there be any weak point in your signal chain? Buy a great cable.

Let’s be honest, choosing the right guitar cable is probably the most boring part of putting together your rig. Just grab the first one you see, maybe pick a cool color, and get playing, right? Well, hold fire! While a cable might not be the most interesting part of your set-up, it’s arguably the most crucial. No cable, no amplified sound; so it's important to consider which one is right for your needs.

If you’ve never considered which cable is best, you’re not alone – even veteran guitarists may never have taken time to mull over what makes a cable good or bad for them. But with this guide we can help you make a confident choice.

What does a guitar cable do?

Firstly, it is worth touching on what specifically a guitar cable – often referred to as a jack cable – does. Fortunately, it’s pretty simple. A guitar cable carries the electrical signal generated by your guitar's pickups to an amplifier or your audio equipment of preference. That’s it. This differs from other kinds of cables that you may find in a stage or studio environment that carry other things aside from electrical signals – for example an XLR (microphone cable) can also carry power.

We go into more detail on how guitar cables work in this explainer feature.

Style

In terms of the appearance of guitar cables, they tend to follow pretty much the same general design, barring the odd wild color – which, unfortunately, doesn't translate to a miraculously better tone, so go with whichever color suits you best! 

That’s because a standard cable, composed of a conductive metal core wrapped in an outer jacket, is at its most effective when it’s a flexible, straight cable – hence why the vast majority of them look the same. There isn’t much room to improve the appearance of a cable without hindering its ability to effectively do its job.

One notorious outlier in appearance is the coiled cable. Coiled cables look cool, but they have drawbacks: owners will agree they take up additional space and never quite fall as you want them to. More importantly, they have higher capacitance due to their longer length (if they were stretched all the way out). Higher capacitance means your guitar’s signal loses some characteristics, notably the high end, making your tone sound more dull. That said, this is usually barely noticeable, so if you love the look, then go for it.

Length

Length is important to factor in when buying a cable. If you’re playing live, are you more of a shoegazing type who will happily stay planted in one spot? Or are you more of an Angus Young type who likes to make the absolute most of the stage? 

There’s nothing more embarrassing than trying to strut your way around the stage, then yanking your lead out of your amplifier and noticing you can no longer hear yourself; rest assured, everybody else noticed it too. Make sure you get a lead that is long enough for your preferred level of stage movement, though do bear in mind that a longer lead will mean a larger price tag and the same capacitance issue we covered with the coiled cable. Alternatively, consider a wireless set-up that gives you total freedom of the stage.

Perhaps you’ve just got hold of your first couple of pedals and now need to connect them up? You could do this with a standard 10ft-long guitar cable, but that will leave a lot of unnecessary cable between each pedal. To avoid this, pedals will typically be joined by patch cables. These will be optimized for pedals by being much shorter –typically only around 6-inches – and feature right-angle connectors to minimize the amount of space taken up by cables on a pedalboard, allowing you to get pedals much closer to each other.

Connectors

Some standard cables may also feature angled connectors – for guitars such as a Gibson Les Paul, which feature their jack input on the bottom, this is a handy addition that keeps you from banging the cable and risking snapping the end off; however this wouldn’t be as suitable for a Stratocaster, which features the jack input on the front and at an angle, which is designed to work best with a standard, straight jack.

Cable durability

Cables have a habit of dying at exactly the wrong moment. Cheaper cables will typically be made of affordable materials, and their components (e.g. connectors) will be both poorer quality and have been soldered weakly, meaning the connections may not last as long, particularly if they’re subject to wear and tear. Fortunately, as cheap cables can come in at only a few dollars each, they’re not too painful to replace; however, it may be an idea to buy multiple cables at once, giving yourself an insurance policy if one of them breaks down.

Alternatively, premium cables will typically be more durable, being made from higher quality components and with more care taken in the manufacturing process, so they should last longer and wear much better. Many cables now come with warranties, which cover you if they break – though this will not include any excessive damage if you don’t look after them. You will also likely need to keep track of your original purchase receipt, so don’t lose it!

Other features to look out for

It’s always worth looking for a shielded cable, which will have a material that stops electrical interference from the outside world being picked up by the conductive part of your cable, which can produce hum. If you consider that a typical stage will have multiple amplifiers, pedalboards, powered microphones and a PA system, there are a lot of different electrical signals going on which typically don’t play nicely with your guitar’s own. Shielding can only do so much to stop noise/hum entering your circuit – your guitar itself will be the biggest culprit of opening the door to noise – but every little helps and the best cables will have excellent shielding.

Some cables have additional features, such as circuit breaker switches, that mean you can silently unplug and switch instruments – we’ve all been there, unplugging your guitar while it’s still plugged into the amp and faced with a big ‘pop’; this switch avoids that. This is something to consider if you make a lot of instrument changes during a set.

99 percent of guitars will use standard jack cables, but there are odd occasions where a specific cable needs to be used; for example if the guitar needs to transmit additional data aside from just an electrical signal from the pickups. 

Where using different cables is becoming more common, however, is with effects pedals. Some pedals feature stereo input and output, which may come in the shape of two standard mono jacks for the left and right signals coming out of the pedal, or one single stereo jack or TRS cable – this is the case on the MXR M300 reverb pedal. 

These cables are easy to find, and much more common to use for stereo instruments such as keyboards, but it’s something to consider if you want to make use of the stereo capabilities of your pedals.

Should you build your own cables?

If you have a penchant for DIY, then perhaps buying a ready-made cable isn’t for you. Why not build your own? There are even a number of manufacturers who will package up the equipment for you to do this, and you don’t necessarily need a soldering iron either, as some offer solderless cable kits.

Typically, players would lean towards building their own cables if they needed a specific length, for example when building a pedalboard and there's a requirement for a patch cable of a certain length. Whilst patch cables come in many lengths, nothing satisfies the neat-freak more than having a cable that fits perfectly between your pedals. Building your own cable also gives valuable insight into how cables are built and how to fix them when they break.

Conclusion

Most guitar cables will do a job for you, regardless of which specific one you go for. If you’re keen to get going as quickly and cost-effectively as possible, budget own-brand cables may be ideal, but these likely won’t deliver the durability of more expensive cables, so it may be worth making a larger initial investment to save money down the line.

Above all, always make sure you buy the right cable for the right job – for example the often unheralded little patch cable is a crucial component in building the tonal kingdom at your feet and should be given as much thought as your primary instrument cable. They may not be exciting, but every guitar cable in your circuit should be given the consideration and investment it deserves.

As electric guitarists, we all know that guitar cables are an essential part of our rig. We plug one end into our guitar, the other end into an amp or pedal, and we’re off – but how do guitar cables actually work?

In the simplest terms, a guitar cable carries the signal produced by the guitar’s pickups to wherever it needs to be. The signal produced by (passive) pickups is quite weak; it’s a low DC current with a small voltage. This then passes through the cable and is eventually amplified by your amp, and the signal is heard through the speaker. 

You might also hear guitar cables being referred to as leads, or cords – but all these terms are interchangeable. 

In this piece we’re going to look at everything from the materials most cables are made of, exactly how they work, plus explore how factors such as capacitance and cable length can have an impact on cable performance. 

What are guitar cables made from?

Most guitar cables are constructed using a copper core – you might see other high-conductivity materials being used here, such as gold, but copper is most common – as the aim is to transfer the signal from one end to the other. Next up is an insulating layer, then a wire-braided shield to help prevent external interference. Finally, cables have a durable, but flexible outer jacket.

Guitar cables are unbalanced – that means that only one copy of your signal is passing through it. This is opposed to a balanced cable which carries your signal alongside an inverted version of it – this helps cancel out any extraneous noise it picks up along the way.

As a result of our guitar cables being unbalanced, things like fluorescent lights, mobile phones and other electronic equipment can interfere and cause a slight hum or unwanted noise, which is then of course amplified by our guitar amp. This is why shielding is such an important part of a cable. High-quality cables may boast multiple layers of shielding to ensure this unwanted noise is kept to an absolute minimum. They may also have different materials for the outer jacket to ensure longevity and durability.

Jack plugs

At either end of the cable is a 1/4” jack connector plug. These are connected to the copper core and are the part of the cable that connects to your equipment. They’re often made from steel or brass and coated in gold or nickel.

Whilst you might look at ‘gold-plated’ and instantly think that they will sound better, it’s worth noting that they don’t really make a difference. Gold is used because it doesn’t corrode – that said, so little gold is actually used that it can wear off over time. Nickel, on the other hand, is tougher.

In our experience, if the jack plug looks like it’s thin and won’t withstand a great deal of wear and tear, then it probably won’t! Guitar cables are available with straight jacks or angled jacks, which can be better suited to particular guitars or pedals. 

Capacitance

If you’ve been looking around at different guitar cables, you might have noticed the word ‘capacitance’ being knocked around. Without getting too technical, all guitar cables hold some level of electrical charge as they are essentially just a really long capacitor, going from the pickup in your guitar to wherever you’re sending it. A higher capacitance means that it can hold more charge.

With guitar cables, we don’t want there to be lots of electrical charge present – we want the signal to flow smoothly from one place to another. Capacitance actually has an impact on the sound you hear from your amp, too. Higher capacitance cables will mean that your top-end frequencies are gradually rolled off, resulting in a darker, less trebly tone. Conversely, low capacitance cables will mean that that treble roll-off is lessened and you’ll get a brighter sound.

Cable length

The effect of cable length on your tone is very much related to capacitance. Regardless of how low-capacitance your cables are, you’ll still get more capacitance the longer your cable is. Many claim that you can start hearing a difference with a regular, good-quality (but not amazing) cable around 15-18ft. At this point, what you’ll hear will be very subtle, but the longer the cable is, the more those treble frequencies will start to disappear. 

That’s one of the reasons some players try and choose the shortest cable they can get away with. Another workaround is to use a buffer pedal. These help combat the top-end roll-off you experience with long cable runs by enhancing the signal. If you’re using a complex pedalboard then you can play around with the buffer’s placement to see where it works best. 

There are players out there that use the treble-taming properties of longer cables to their advantage though. If you’ve got a really bright guitar and amp, then a long cable with higher capacitance could work to your advantage, cutting out the frequencies you don’t want and focusing on the ones you do. 

Patch cables

If you’re building a pedalboard, then you’ll likely want a number of small guitar cables to connect your pedals to one another. These are called patch cables. 

They are designed exactly for this purpose and mean that you don’t have huge lengths of cable running between your pedals – this would result in both increased capacitance and an unholy mess!

When investing in cables for your ‘board, it’s worth opting for the best quality ones you can afford. Using a bunch of cheap cables between multiple pedals could potentially mean that you’re gradually sucking the tone from your signal between each pedal.

The jack plugs are especially worth considering on patch cables too – if space is at a premium, then you might want flat, or ‘pancake’ plugs, as these let you fit your pedals closer together.

Final thoughts

In general, it’s worth buying good quality guitar cables. While they won’t add anything to your tone (despite some marketing claiming that they will), bad cables can take away from it. 

Cheap, poorly designed cables can be really susceptible to interference, and might even make noise as you move them along the floor – not ideal if you’re active on stage! Also, if you’ve invested carefully in your guitar, amp and pedals, then it’s worth paying a bit extra to make sure they’re properly connected and can be heard as intended.

Quality guitar cables might not be the most exciting things to spend your money on, but they’re definitely worth it. Plus, the old saying ‘buy cheap, buy twice’ is incredibly relevant here!

Under the Gator Co. umbrella, Gator has cemented itself as one of the premier guitar case manufacturers currently in operation – but the firm also specializes in a huge variety of other guitar accessories, ranging from instrument cables and combo guitar racks.

Gator’s cables are released under the Gator Cableworks division, with the company’s Headliner Series of cables – which comprises quiet-Switch Instrument Cables, TS Speaker Cables and XLR Cables, all in a range of lengths – serving as a particular highlight. 

The Headliner Series features Gator’s best-performing, lowest capacitance conductors to provide optimal signal transmission, with a durable and flexible PVC jacket ensuring long-lasting reliability.

Furthermore, the patent pending Cableworks connectors boast a rugged design, and offer brass, gold-plated contacts to ensure maximum connectivity while also providing extreme resistance to corrosion.

As an added bonus, TORIColor ID rings are present for easy identification when running numerous cables at once, and a Quiet ‘kill switch’ allows for hot swapping when a swift instrument change is required.

All of the above can be conveniently hung on Gator’s Frameworks Elite Guitar and Case Combo Rack, which supports up to four guitars, cases, or a combination of both – as demonstrated by Guitar World’s Paul Riario in the video above.

In practice, the included divider pegs can be adjusted to fit a range of electrics, basses, and acoustics, as well as those with more unconventional offset body shapes.

“If you're looking for a solid rack to hold your instruments and cables, the Gator Frameworks Combo Rack is an attractive choice that will work well in any studio or rehearsal room,” notes Riario.

Prices for the Gator Cableworks and Frameworks products can be found below.

Cableworks
Instrument: $19.99 – $64.99
XLR: $37.99 – $99.99
Speaker: $27.99 – $69.99 

Frameworks
Elite Guitar Rack 3: $249.99

Learn more at Gator Cableworks and Gator.

Today, let's do a bit of housekeeping and talk about guitar cables. After all, a cable is one of the most crucial components of your guitar rig. Without it, your tasty chops will never be set free through your blasting Marshall stack. And if you've ever suffered a gig-ruining signal dropout from a dodgy cable, you'll understand the need to keep your cables in top condition. If you’ve never experienced anything like this, congratulations – keep up the good work. Take it from us, this is definitely something you'll want to avoid.

Recognizing the signs that your guitar cable needs replacing is crucial for preventing on-stage or rehearsal room drama. Moreover, there are tried and tested methods for keeping your cables in optimal condition. 

Although cables are a necessary purchase, even the most guitar-obsessed fanatic would agree that purchasing cables isn’t the most exciting of gear acquisitions, so keeping them in good condition will mean you’re not spending out more than you need to. So, let's delve into the telltale signs of a faulty cable and explore the best maintenance practices to help you save a few dollars.

The warning signs

1. No signal coming through your amp 

Let’s start with the most obvious sign. If you've plugged your guitar into your amplifier and there's no signal coming through at all, chances are your cable is completely dead. Either that or you’ve not turned it on at the mains (we’ve all been there before). While it's true that your guitar and amplifier are also part of the equation, the cable, being the most exposed, tangled and coiled component, is often the culprit. And of course, it’s the cheapest thing to replace, so a good first port of call.

If your guitar has never shown signs of signal breakup, it's less likely to be an issue with the guitar itself. Of course, guitar components can deteriorate over time, but if you’re lucky enough to own more than one, testing your set-up with a different guitar can help rule out this possibility as the source of any issues.

If you don’t have additional cables or guitars for testing, you can perform a simple check using your amplifier. Turn your amplifier on and crank it up; if your amp is working fine you should hear an electrical buzz, especially on a high-gain or overdrive channel. Next, plug the cable into the amplifier, leaving the other end exposed. If you tap the jack on the end that would typically go into the guitar's output jack, you should hear a clicking noise. If you don't, it's time to retire that cable.

2. Intermittent signal

Intermittent signal is truly frustrating, and it can be more elusive and challenging to identify than a completely dead signal. Unlike a dead signal, intermittent issues may not manifest immediately; the signal may initially appear fine but gradually weaken or drop out sporadically. 

An intermittent cable signal often results from a tiny break near the connector tip, a defect in the copper conductor within the cable or even slight oxidation on the connector tip itself. Any of these blemishes can cause the connection to intermittently engage or disconnect.  

You may find that the cable may only function depending on how the cable is angled. Think of it like an old smartphone charger – you know the type – where you’re precariously balancing it to get a sliver of charge before that 1% of battery vanishes. There’s nothing more annoying and, if you’re in doubt, be safer than sorry and replace your cable.

3. Snap, crackle and pop

It goes without saying that if you are hearing any popping, crackling, buzz or unwanted distortion when using a specific guitar cable, it may be time to chuck it in the garbage. It’s sometimes tempting to jump to the worst possible conclusion; is it a bust preamp tube? Have I bought a dodgy Chibson? Are my expensive Seymour Duncan Zephyr pickups faulty?

However, more often than not, your guitar cable is the primary suspect. Considering the constant bending and coiling our poor cables endure during weekly rehearsals and bar gigs, it's no surprise they often exhibit faults. Plus, considering the price of Zephyrs, a cable replacement isn't the worst outcome.

4. The outer casing is coming apart

This can particularly be a problem with braided cables. While a braided cable offers fantastic protection to the sensitive innards and reduces the chances of kinking, there are instances where the braiding can unravel. This shouldn't affect functionality, as the braiding is typically wrapped around a rubber inner casing that will cover any exposed wire. 

However, it drastically increases the chances of the cable breaking as the braided layer of protection is gone. Plus, if like most guitarists, your stage image is high up on your list of priorities, you don’t want to look scruffy with frayed cables now, do you? For gigging musicians, these are risks you won't want to take. If the braiding has unwound, it's certainly worth considering getting a few replacements. Both for longevity and aesthetics.

5. Damaged jack connectors

Jacks, ¼-inch tips, connectors, plugs – whatever term you prefer, it’s important to keep an eye on them. This side of your cable undergoes the most physical contact, and the jack connector is prone to easy damage or bending. 

Whether you've accidentally stepped on your cable mid-performance, yanked it too hard from the amplifier, or inadvertently hit the control panel while connecting to your amp, a bent connector tip is a surefire way to end up with a faulty cable. Where the cable’s wire meets the connector tip is the most sensitive part of the whole set-up, so if this has been compromised and bent out of shape, if it’s not already faulty, chances are it will soon be. 

Also, since the jack connectors are metallic, they can be prone to oxidation. Particularly if you’re keeping cables in damp environments or have been using the same cable for centuries. An oxidized jack connector will interrupt your guitar’s signal and can lead to audio spikes through your amplifier or simply weaken the volume. Either way, if you notice rust, it’s important to nip this problem in the bud. 

Cable care tips

1. Don’t tie your cables into a knot 

While this may seem obvious to some, many players are still guilty of tying their cables into knots after they've finished playing. Although it may offer a quick way to tidy up, it poses a risk of damaging the sensitive wires inside. Instead, try the over-under method of wrapping your cables, which can help extend your cables’ lifespan as it doesn’t cause any unnecessary strain. Once you get the hang of it, it will become muscle memory and will be way more efficient, tidy and safe. 

2. Loop your cable through your strap

You'll often see guitarists do this on stage: they'll feed the guitar cable through their strap and into the output jack. It's a brilliant trick because it provides a bit of slack, reducing tension on the jack connector. Plus, if you accidentally step on the cable mid-performance, it won't yank it out of your guitar's output jack. This simple move can help you avoid potentially breaking your guitar, damaging the cable, and bringing your performance to a screeching halt.

3. Keep those connectors clean

If you have a residency at your local venue, constantly travel with your gear, or simply aren't the type to do regular cleanups, it's crucial to keep the jack connectors as clean as possible. Dirt or oxidation on the connector tip can cause your signal to break up, start crackling, or even result in shorts in the system. So, every now and then, wipe the connector tips down with a microfiber cloth to keep those metallic tips nice and shiny. If you’ve performed at a sweaty venue, accidentally spilled a drop of beer, or left your cables in a particularly damp environment this is especially crucial. It’ll take five seconds but will prevent any musical mishaps further down the line.

4. Never yank on the cable itself

After you're done playing and it's time to pack up, don't just yank on the cable to unplug it from your amp or guitar. Grab hold of the plastic or metal casing around the jack plug and give it a firm but gentle pull. This simple move not only saves your cable from snapping but also keeps your guitar's output jack and amp input safe from any accidental damage. After all, a broken instrument or amplifier is a much bigger headache than a guitar cable replacement.

5. Get a cable holder for your studio

If you have a studio or even a little corner of a spare room where you play guitar, it would be worthwhile to invest in a cable holder. You've probably seen these in your local guitar store, and for good reason. Cable holders are incredibly handy accessories that allow you to neatly store cables, keeping them out of the way and protecting them from unnecessary damage. A cable holder is a fairly primitive device, consisting of multiple prongs that are usually attached to your wall. By coiling your cables using the over-under method, you'll not only improve their longevity generally, but also be able to hang them up on a cable holder.

6. Choose the correct cable length

Choosing the right cable length for your application can significantly reduce the chance of straining your cables over long stretches. If you've bought a short 1-meter cable you may quickly run into some length issues, particularly if playing live. It’s imperative you avoid stretching the cable to its maximum capacity, as this can cause unnecessary strain and potential damage. While using what's available is sometimes necessary, particularly in local venues, accumulating cables of various lengths for your collection can help prevent this issue. Always be prepared and consider how much cable length you need before leaving for band practice.

Our top picks

Are your usual electric guitar strings, guitar straps and guitar cables too boring? Need some accessories that are perhaps... a bit scarier? If so, Jackson's got you covered.

The company's new accessories are about as metal it gets, bringing a decidedly demonic, appropriate-for-Halloween-season air to products that, admittedly, can sometimes be a bit boring to talk about.

Chief among these is the company's new, 6.66 meter guitar cable. Available in black with red spatter or all-black looks, the cable features 24K gold-plated jacks, heavy duty shielding and 8mm OD wire, and one straight plug and one right-angle plug. The 6.66 meter cable is available now, for $49.

If you wish, perhaps, to not connect to demonic forces (or want a shorter cable), Jackson has also announced a new 3.33 meter cable available in the same black with red spatter and all-black looks. Loaded up with the same features as its 6.66 meter counterpart, the cable rings up at $34.

Also among Jackson's spicy new accessories are two straps: one covered in metal studs, and one with the same blood spatter motif as found on the new cables.

The splatter strap is available in black or white, is adjustable from 39" - 68" and features a shark fin leather end piece. It's listed for $29.

The metal stud strap, unsurprisingly, is a more high-end item. Made of leather, with hand-pressed metal studs, it goes for $199.

Less horror-themed but still of note are the company's new Soloist guitar strings. Available in Light, Medium, Heavy and Extra Heavy sets (in both regular and drop-tuned 6-string incarnations), Light and Medium 7-string sets, and Light 8-string sets, the strings ring up at $6, $8 and $10 a set (for the 6-, 7- and 8-string sets, respectively.)

Along with the guitar gear, Jackson also launched a new line of apparel, featuring new T-shirts with spooky "Skeletone," "Sharkrot" and "R.I.P. logo" themes, and some more regular ones sporting Jackson's 'shark-fin' motif. 

The shark fin-themed T-shirts are available for $29, while the Skeletone and R.I.P. logo T-shirts go for $34. The Sharkrot long-sleeved shirt, meanwhile, is available for $44.

For more info on these, and all of the company's accessories, visit Jackson.

When it comes to patch cables, I honestly can’t count the number of times people have asked me if they have any effect on your tone. I see it on forums all over the web too, so, to finally put this question to bed, I gathered 14 of the best patch cables from all across the world of guitar to find out how much of a difference they really make.

Do you know what I found? There’s basically no difference when buying from a major brand. Every patch cable I tested did a fine job of transferring tone from my electric guitar to my guitar amp. Yes, you can get tone loss when putting together a pedalboard with lots of different pedals, but this is easily remedied by using a buffer or loop switcher. Cheap, off-brand patch cables will also add noise to your tone, so be aware of these as well.

Since I’ve so quickly gotten an answer to that ever-pervasive question, what’s the point of testing patch cables out now? Well, having built and gigged countless pedalboards over a 20+ year playing career, I can tell you from personal experience that multiple onstage failures are what keep me up at night. That means the quality of the build and the number of options a patch cable offers are the defining factors of what makes a cable great.

If you want the best overall patch cable, I’d pick the Ernie Ball Flat Ribbons. They’re relatively inexpensive, have a very compact connector, and ultra-solid durability, making them a brilliant all-rounder. Coming in a very close second was the EBS Flat Patch, which is more compact but has slightly less in the options department. I still highly recommend them for space saving, though.

Best overall

Overview: The Ernie Ball Flat Ribbon patch cable ended up being my favorite cable from all ten that I tested for this guide. I had actually been using some on my ‘board prior to writing this guide, and the cable’s flexibility, robust connectors, and reasonable price point were why I ended up choosing them for the top spot.

Connectors: The all-metal construction of the Flat Ribbon patch cable feels extremely sturdy in the hand, and the rectangular design with rounded corners makes it easy to navigate into tight spaces in between pedals. They’re pretty much exactly the same size as similarly slim offerings from Fender and EBS, so no issues placing them next to one another when rigging up a pedal switcher or stereo guitar pedals.

Flexibility: I found the cable itself to be super flexible. It bends and twists any which you want it to, making it easy to work into the gaps between your pedals, or run underneath the ‘board when you get a longer length. It’s not quite as flexible as the EBS patch cable or the Boss solderless kit, but I like the extra feeling of robustness you get from the EB Flat Ribbons.

The cable jacket itself is made from PVC, and comes in a flat ‘ribbon’ shape, which further aids in getting your pedals as close together as possible, as the cable can run up against itself in a space-saving manner.

Options: With the EB Flats, you get lots of choice in terms of length, with four options running from 3” to 12”, which should cover the vast majority of players. They also go beyond other manufacturers in offering different colors, which is a nice touch if you like to color code your build. You can get them in orange, white, or traditional black.

They’re also available in multi-packs of 10 with varying lengths if you want to save some money buying in bulk. There’s no straight connector available with these patch cables, and although I don’t think many players would want that option, it’s something to think about if you have a particular need for your rig.

Verdict: The Ernie Ball Flat Ribbon patch cable is a clear winner for me. It nails the super durable build quality, features an ultra-flexible cable for twisting and turning, has a nice and compact connector that’s well put together, and is decent value for money. For the vast majority of guitar players, your search for the perfect patch cable ends here.

Best flat patch

Overview: I’ve only recently discovered EBS cables, but they’ve really impressed me with their combination of space-saving features and excellent durability. The Swedish company offers an excellent range of lengths that’s comparable to the Ernie Ball patch cables, and out of all the cables I tested, they had the smallest connector and most flexible cabling.

Connectors: The connectors are 24-carat gold-plated, sandwiched between two hard bits of plastic. The shape and design looks very similar to that of the Fender and Ernie Ball patch cables I tested for this guide, but the other two have an all metal construction which wins out in the durability stakes. The EBS connectors are slimmer than any of the others, but we’re talking a difference of less than a centimeter here.

Flexibility: Of all the cables I tested, the EBS ones had the most flex. It features a flat ‘ribbon’ cable design similar to the Ernie Ball cable, but is thinner all around which is what allows it to flex so easily. It makes it great for manipulating into wild shapes to fit the particular intricacies of your pedalboard, whether you’re running underneath or bending it round a corner to get it to its destination.

On feel alone, the thinner PVC jacket doesn’t feel quite as rugged as some of the other cables here, but I didn’t find myself worrying about it in use. As someone with a lot of pedals on their ‘board and a pedal switcher, having that extra flexibility to route cables is definitely welcome, and despite repeated twisting, pulling, and general jiggling, the EBS cable held up admirably.

Options: Like the Ernie Ball patch cables, EBS features four different length options, but it only comes in black and gold. The four options mean plenty of scope for building a ‘board with these cables alone, and the inclusion of a long 22-inch cable is great for those extra-long runs that you sometimes have in more complex builds.

Verdict: It was a very close call between this cable and the Ernie Ball ones for the overall top spot. In the end, the EBS cable lost the battle due to the lack of color options, and the slightly less robust feeling of the connectors. Those two factors aside, it’s a brilliant cable and if you’re looking to maximize your pedalboard real estate, the obvious choice.

Best budget

Overview: When I built my first ‘board I used cheap cables because I was a student with no money, so it can be done on a shoestring budget. Buying cheap cables can be a bit of a lottery though, so if you want my advice, go for the Donner Patch Cable if you want to save as much money as possible, but still get a quality cable.

Connectors: This cable features moulded plastic connectors, which are plenty robust, but don’t offer the space-saving qualities of the flat patch designs most of the other cables in this guide feature. This means you’ll have to sacrifice some pedalboard space in order to save cash, as you won’t be able to place them as close together as the designs from Ernie Ball, EBS, Fender, and Boss.

Flexibility: The cable is thicker and a lot stiffer than the others on this list, so you won’t have as much flexibility with this patch cable. It’s still fine for chaining pedals next to one another on a simple build, but if you’re really squeezing things together or need to twist it under the board for neatness, you might struggle.

The PVC jacket does feel very durable though, thanks to that thicker design, so it gives you a lot of reassurance that it will stand the test of time once you put it into your build. The plastic is thinner near where the cable joins the connector, which means there’s decent flexibility in maneuvering the cable.

Options: With the Donner Patch Cable, you’ve got two options in the form of a 6” cable and a 12” cable. For most guitarists, this will be a good mixture of lengths, but on more complex pedalboards with pedal switchers or additional footswitches, you might find it to be a bit of a limiting factor.

Verdict: I can’t knock the Donner Patch Cable considering the price, yes it has a few flaws in terms of space saving and the less flexible PVC jacket, but they’ll still work really well for the majority of home players. If you don’t want to spend loads on neatening up your pedalboard, these are an excellent value choice.

Best premium

Overview: Mogami is well known for being the industry standard cabling when it comes to recording studios, so it’s no surprise to find that their patch and guitar cables are similarly high quality. This is a cable for those who want to spare no expense building their pedalboard, so if you have a lot of pedals, be prepared to spend a lot of money on these.

Connectors: Out of all the patch cables I tested, the Neutrik connectors on this patch cable stood out a mile as the most durable. They’re hefty compared to the other patch cables, and I could see them surviving all-out nuclear war; they’re that robust. This does come at a price though, as they’re the largest out of all I tested too, meaning it’ll be difficult to get your pedals close together if you want to save space.

Flexibility: The Mogami cable is thicker than all of the others, and not all that flexible when it comes to bending it around. It will still go around corners and under your pedalboard, but you might find it going in directions you don’t want it to when you’re putting your ‘board together.

The cable itself is super robust though, and I’d have no qualms about it getting stood on, twisted, or bent in any direction, all while maintaining its integrity. Near the connector, it’s really solidly applied, with a plastic/rubber sheathing that prevents it from bending near that most delicate of spots.

Options: With four different lengths available, the Mogami patch cable is up there with the Ernie Ball and EBS cables when it comes to options for length. It’ll cover the vast majority of builds, although the connectors take up a lot of the 6” cable, which means it’s slightly less flexible than other options here.

Verdict: If you want the very best of the best in terms of build quality, then the Mogami Gold patch cable is the way to go. Its sensational quality connectors and rock-solid cable jacket mean there’s little chance of this cable failing you. It’s an expensive option though, so be prepared to spend if you want to kit out a full pedalboard with these bad boys.

Best solderless

Overview: When I first got the grips with the Boss BCK-24 Solderless Pedalboard Cable Kit, I was a little intimidated by the idea of having to cut my own cable lengths. I needn’t have worried though, the hardest part was getting the metal staples out of the packaging to open it up! If you want to custom-spec the patch cable lengths for your pedalboard for a super neat build, this is a brilliant option.

Connectors: The connectors are the same as those used in all Boss cables, so that means 24-carat gold-plated plugs. You get 24 in total in this pack, enough to make 12 cables to whichever length you need. The connectors can be wired as right-angle or straight, which adds further versatility to their use, and they’re held in place by a small screw with a flat head on it, which can be easily affixed using the screwdriver Boss provides in the packaging. I did find myself wishing there was a notch for the right-angle option, though, as I found when I bent the cable, it still sticks out from the connector a bit.

Flexibility: The cable itself is super flexible, second only to the EBS cables I tested in terms of malleability. You can twist and bend it into any shape you like, which makes it very adaptable when you need to go around obstacles on your pedalboard or take the shortest possible route to the next pedal.

Unlike the EBS, Ernie Ball, and Fender designs, it’s a thin gauge with a round design, and when using my wire cutters, normally reserved for stripping electric guitar string ends, it cut super easily. I did notice that you need to be very clean with your cuts, however, because miscutting it slightly can result in the core sticking out a bit, which can make it tricky to get into the connector end.

Options: The Boss Solderless Pedalboard Kit comes in 6, 12, and 24 connector options, which also correspond to the length of cable you get in feet. In terms of options, it’s the most adaptable thanks to the ability to cut your own cable lengths. It also has a connector advantage over others, thanks to the ability to wire it straight, whereas pretty much every other patch cable comes in angle-angle format only.

Verdict: It’s a popular choice for guitarists to buy cable, connectors, and then solder their own cable lengths for a pedalboard. It’s a lot of work though. The Boss BCK-24 Solderless Pedalboard Cable Kit does make it easier than doing the aforementioned, and it surprised me with the ease with which you can start putting custom lengths together. It still requires some planning and effort, but if you’re willing to put that in, this is the best choice for optimizing your pedalboard.

Best cable kit

Overview: The Fender Blockchain Medium cable kit is a great value way to buy a bunch of different cable lengths in one handy package. With 12 cables across 4 different lengths, the Medium pack should do for most guitarists, but you can buy a bigger one with 15 cables, or a smaller one with 9 if you prefer.

Connectors: The connectors are all metal, which gives a nice feeling of robustness to the cable. They feel super solid, and they’re similarly sized to those from Ernie Ball and EBS so will help those looking to save space. Some might not dig the fact that they’re nickel rather than gold-plated, but honestly, I couldn’t hear any difference between these and the other cables I tested.

Flexibility: The Fender Blockchain cables have a very small, squared cable that’s similar in size to the cable you get in the Boss solderless kit. It’s pretty flexible, and although it doesn’t flex quite as much as the EBS cable, it’s certainly malleable enough to cover most pedalboard needs.

The jacket feels super robust, and the square design with the small gauge means it doesn’t take up much room either. It feels super durable under load, and even pushing down onto it with something sharp doesn’t leave much of a mark.

Options: Depending on how you look at it, the Fender Blockchain kits offer a lot of flexibility, especially with the large pack that features a large, 36-inch cable. You are slightly limited in the fact that they can only be bought as multipacks, so there’s no way to get the exact lengths you need. That said, there should be plenty of options in each pack to satisfy most guitarists' needs.

Verdict: If you want an all-in-one solution, then the Fender Blockchain Medium cable kit is an excellent choice. The cables themselves are really high quality and durable, and there’s a plethora of lengths to choose from depending on which pack you go for. Buying in bulk can also save you money versus buying individual cables to specific lengths.

Spec comparison

If you're struggling to decide between any of my top picks, this specs table provides a quick and easy to read reference point, allowing you to compare the key specs of each patch cable in one place.

Also consider

For the vast majority of guitar players, the above patch cables should have you covered when it comes to building your next pedalboard. I do appreciate no two 'boards are the same though, so here are some more great options if you didn't find what you were looking for.

How to choose

There are a lot of potential reasons you might need a patch cable, whether you’re just connecting a couple of overdrive pedals together or rigging up a monster pedalboard. If you’ve never bought patch cables before, or you just want some more knowledge before you go ahead and build your latest pedalboard, here are my top tips for choosing the right patch cables for the job.

1. Plan your build

Seems obvious, but planning out what cable lengths you need beforehand is an absolute necessity. I’ve built a bunch of ‘boards in my time, and nearly all of them have resulted in shifting things around due to cable lengths, pedalboard power supply placement, or in some cases, having to wait for new cables to arrive, as I didn’t have the requisite length.

So before you do anything, place your pedals on your pedalboard (or the floor if you’re not using a ‘board) and estimate what cable lengths you’re going to need. If you’re routing your cable beneath the pedalboard, then make sure to account for some extra length in order to ensure you have enough give to do it.

I always find it helpful to draw out the signal path by hand to make sure I know exactly where each pedal is going to go, and where the jacks are. As some might have side jacks and some top jacks, you’re almost certain to need a variety of cable lengths when building a pedalboard.

2. Connectors

It’s also very important to pay attention to the connectors on your patch cables, particularly if you’re mixing and matching cable types and brands. Each patch cable tends to have an ever so slightly different dimension, which means in some instances they won’t always fit side by side where two jacks are close to one another.

If you’re using stereo pedals, expression inputs, or a pedal switcher, it’s important to note the size and shape of the connectors you’re using so you can be sure they fit next to each other. Again, it’s happened to me before where I only had two different patch cables left, but ended up not being able to get them to squeeze in next to each other.

3. Gigging

Playing at home and playing on the road will subject your patch cables to very different levels of stress. If your ‘board mostly stays at home, then you won’t need to worry so much about color coding or marking your cables in some way. To be honest, if you’re not fussed about looks, you might not want to route cables underneath your pedalboard either, as it will let you swap pedal order more quickly.

If you’re gigging, then you’ll need to think harder about your cable choice. It might be that you need to change something while you’re out on the road, or as sometimes happens on stage when something fails you. This is natural as gigging puts more strain on your cables. You might want to buy colored cables in order to differentiate runs to a pedal switcher, or just label your cables so you know what’s what.

4. What’s your budget?

Buying patch cables can add up very quickly, particularly if you’re running a lot of pedals with a pedal switcher. You don’t want to skimp on quality, but you also can’t just spend above your budget. Here, you need to go back to your use case to determine the best course of action.

If you’re just playing at home, then in my experience, you can get away with cheaper cables. They’re not going to be stressed regularly, so the chances of failure are a lot less likely. If you’re playing live, then I would 100% recommend spending as much as you can on your cables. Take it from me, it’s a horrible feeling when a patch cable dies on stage.

FAQs

Key terms

• Buffer: A circuit that counteracts tone loss across long cable lengths. Players often place a buffered pedal, like a Boss TU-3 guitar tuner, at the front of their pedalboard to help with tone loss.
• Capacitance: The ability of a cable to store an electrical charge. A high capacitance can result in a loss of some treble frequencies
• Conductor: The wire in your guitar cable that carries your signal, typically made of copper.
• Daisy chain: A term to describe connecting multiple items along a single cable, usually referring to power cables on pedalboards.
• Flat patch: A slim, flat type of connector designed to save space on your pedalboard.
• Ground loop: A common cause of hum in guitar rigs, usually caused by power issues but can be as a result of poor quality patch cables.
• Insulation: The material that separates the conductor and shielding inside your cable.
• Noise floor: The base level of noise in your signal chain, which you’ll want to keep at a minimum with good-quality cables.
• Pancake plug: A flat, but round style of patch cable. Saves space putting pedals next to one another but can often be too wide to get two patch cables right next to each other on some stereo pedals.
• Real estate: A colloquial term to refer to how much space you have on your pedalboard.
• Right-angle connector: A patch cable connector that forms a right angle. Most patch cables use this format.
• Shielding: A conductive component of the cable that shields the signal from electromagnetic interference.
• Signal chain: The order in which your pedals are connected.
• Soldered connection: The method of using solder to secure the cable to the connector.
• Solderless connection: A solder-free connection that clamps the wire into the connector.
• Tap test: A testing method whereby you tap the connector of the cable to determine if it is live.
• Tone suck: A colloquial term for the loss of tone across long cable runs, usually due to a lack of buffer or poor quality cable.
• TRS cable: A type of cable typically used for stereo effects pedals, expression pedals, footswitches, and other accessories that need a stereo connector.

Why trust us

Guitar World boasts over 44 years of expertise and stands as the ultimate authority on all things related to guitars. The magazine and website feature expertly written gear round-ups and top-quality, authoritative reviews penned by a team of highly experienced industry professionals.

Guitar World's inaugural print issue hit the shelves in July 1980, and ever since, it has been captivating players and enthusiasts with engaging lessons, insightful interviews with the most prominent guitar heroes, and priceless buying advice for newbie players.

Furthermore, GuitarWorld.com continues this legacy online and serves as the hub of the world's foremost authorities on guitar playing. The site not only hosts content from Guitar World but also showcases articles from respected publications such as Guitarist, Total Guitar, Guitar Techniques, and Bass Player. With a reach extending to 3.8 million players each month, GuitarWorld.com is a go-to destination for guitar fanatics globally.

How I tested

As I stated in the introduction of this guide, I don’t believe there’s much of a difference in terms of sounds when it comes to a big brand patch cable. Of course, I tested all the cables in this guide to listen to the differences in their tone, and to my ear, there was little difference between any of them.

To test these patch cables, then, I opted to just use them on my own pedalboard for a few weeks to determine how robust they are. That meant taking them to recording sessions and rehearsals, as well as using them at home just as any guitarist would. I took the following steps with each cable to determine its suitability for each use case.

1. Connector

The connector is the most likely point of failure on any cable, so I examined these in great detail to see how robustly they were built. I pulled, twisted, dropped, stood on them, and, of course, used them on my pedalboard to determine how close together they allowed me to get my pedals. Anything that I thought didn’t perform to satisfaction in these tests was discarded, while the best made it through to the guide.

2. Flexibility

Next, I looked at the cable jacket itself. Here I was after a mixture of flexibility and durability, as you need the cable to hold up to pressure, as well as be malleable enough to go underneath your pedalboard or around corners to other pedals. The balance between the two is a fine one, and as I have a complex pedalboard with a pedal switcher, I had the perfect playground to put them to the test.

3. Options

Finally, I had to consider the options available, as for most pedalboard builds, you will require a variety of lengths. Some of the manufacturers who sent me their patch cables for testing offered me the full range of their offering, whereas others just gave me their most popular length. Either way, I was able to look up the number of options available for each one, and I used this to judge the overall score of the patch cable in question.

I’ve been building pedalboards for over 20 years now, and I’m the proud owner of a pedalboard with 12 pedals and a pedal switcher, so I know a thing or two about what makes a great patch cable. All of my testing was carried out under my overarching experience, so I was able to use my own experience to judge which was the best for each use case.

Read more about our rating system, how we choose the gear we feature, and exactly how we test each product.

Latest updates

All guitar wireless systems are more or less created equal, right? Wrong! Say hello to the newest wireless from NUX, the C-5RC, which brings guitar into the 5G future.

“So what makes the NUX C-5RC different from other wireless guitar systems?” asks Guitar World Tech Editor Paul Riario in the above demo video. “Well for one, it utilizes 5.8GHz technology.”

What does this mean, exactly? “It’s the latest frequency and the new standard, and one which is not commonly used among other wireless devices,” Paul explains. “Most other systems run on 2.4GHz bandwidth. So with the new system you’ll experience less interference onstage and at home.”

The C-5RC features automatic pairing and has up to 30 meters or 100 feet of operating range, depending on your environment. It boasts a more stable wireless connection while also offering low latency, low noise, low interference, flawless operation and a high-quality 24bit/44.1kHz audio experience.

What’s more, Paul says, the C-5RC is “tiny and portable, with a sleek form factor. And its swiveling ¼ inch output jack makes it compatible with all types of instruments, including electric guitars with either active or passive pickups, electric-acoustic guitars, bass guitars and even keyboards.”

There’s also a power case with an internal battery to charge the transmitter and receiver, and a set of fully-charged units can last up to four hours. 

In short, Paul says, “The NUX C-5RC is an amazingly portable and powerful wireless guitar system with up to 100 feet of operating range with a transparent and quiet signal.” 

He concludes, “It’s about time for you to ditch your cables when you perform and feel the freedom of going wireless. And just looking at its ergonomic form factor, it’s a no-brainer.”

To ditch your cables and try out the C-5RC, head here.

NUX has already made waves with its popular B-5RC, a 2.4GHz guitar wireless system, and now they’ve unveiled the new C-5RC, which utilizes 5.8GHz, a newer standard not commonly used among daily devices.

This means you get a less-crowded frequency band and fewer interference issues. Moreover, the C-5RC is equipped with the latest algorithm update from NUX, so you can enjoy a more stable wireless connection while still having low latency and a flawless, high-quality 24bit/44.1kHz audio experience.

What’s more, the C-5RC features automatic pairing and simple plug-and-play operations, and has a 100 ft. operation range. There’s also a ¼-inch audio output jack that’s compatible with all types of instruments, including electric guitars, electric-acoustic guitars, bass guitars, and keyboards.

The C-5RC, And just like the B-5RC, the C-5RC is compact and portable, and comes with a power case to keep both the receiver and transmitter organized and charged on-the-go.

If you’re sick of getting tangled up in cables, take the wireless plunge NUX’s C-5RC.

For more information, head to NUX EFX.

From guitars and amps to picks and pedals, there’s a lot you have to think about in terms of your gear when you go onstage to perform.

But at least your choice of cable can be worry free – that is, if you’re using Canary Cables.

The company offers a wide range of premium professional grade pedalboard, stage and studio cables, all designed with the specific needs of the gigging musician in mind. 

These are high-quality, rugged, no-nonsense cables that deliver high-end sparkle and crystal-clear fidelity, and at a fraction of the price of other competing brands.

Among other offerings, Canary has already been receiving plenty of accolades for its solderless Pedalboard Kit, which comes with 16 feet of premium cable and 16 end plugs and was designed specifically with audio fidelity, durability and convenience in mind.

Now Canary has now introduced another great new product, the Kestrel line of cables, which are built bigger and beefier to be able to handle anything from studio work to beatings on the largest festival-size stages with the biggest sound systems.

Rugged, flexible and made to last, Kestrel cables sport a high-quality oxygen-free copper core and conductive PE / PE Isolation for clear, transparent tone, non-tarnishing gold plug tips, and tapered and rounded low-profile plugs that won’t scratch your guitar. The 8mm stage and studio cable is available in 10- and 20-foot iterations.

And that’s not all that’s new from Canary: the company’s celebrated 10-foot Auto-Mute Switch cables, which eliminate grounding noise – that unwanted “pop” – when plugging or unplugging, are now available, at the request of Canary users, in longer 20-foot lengths.

For more information on all Canary products – including the new Kestrel and 20-foot Auto-Mute Switch cables – check out Canary Cables, where you’ll also find plenty of gifts and stocking-stuffers starting at under $15.

You can also follow Canary on Facebook and Instagram. 

For anyone who’s tried to fit the absolute maximum number of stompboxes on their pedalboard – and we’ll assume that’s most of you – the size of patch cable connectors is a genuine concern. It can make the difference between squeezing one more pedal in your rig or sidelining that particular tone – and Boss has taken note with the launch of its new BPC patch cables.

The pancake jack design has been a perennial favorite of canny ’boarders, but Boss’s custom-housed take on the format trims down the connectors to allow for side-by-side connections, even with tight jack spacing.

Of course, the cables are designed to fit in with Boss’s own tight-jacked products, such as the 200 and 500 series, but they’ll work with any combination of pedals, as well as various loop switchers.

The cables themselves feature 24K gold-plated connectors, low-capacitance studio-grade cable, and oxygen-free copper wire.

Sizes include 4 in./10 cm (BPC-4), 8 in./20 cm (BPC-8), and 18 in./45 cm (BPC-18) lengths, plus a BPC-4 value three-pack.

The BPC cable range is available now, starting at $9.99, while that three-pack’ll set you back $24.99.

If you want more info, Boss has what you need.

In other Boss news, the company also launched the latest in its line of boutique-styled Nextone amps today, the feature-rich Nextone Special.

It's the age-old question: Do guitar cables really make a noticeable difference in your sound?

While the jury might still be out on the answer to that particular question, the fact remains that no guitarist wants to deal with the annoying ramifications of a cheap, unreliable cable. 

Though it's a relatively new company, Canary has already established itself as one of the most dependable makers of guitar cables in the business, creating products that give guitarists pure, unfettered, dependable signal at prices that don't burn a hole in their wallets, and spare them from the dreaded, deafening pops.

A few days ago, Canary Cables owner Marc Romansky and Canary endorsee Dylan Rose - of Archer Nation fame - kindly took the time to chat with GW Tech Editor Paul Riario about what sets these cables apart. You can check out their conversation in the video above. 

For more info, stop by Canary Cables.

Our friends at Canary Cables have put together an impressive prize package, and you can sign up below for your chance to take it home! Enter using the form below:

Here are the details: 

The Epiphone Les Paul Traditional PRO-III electric guitar features a gloss-finish maple veneer top on an all-mahogany body, along with a '60s profile neck. Its versatile alnico humbucker pickups and coil-splitting via push/pull pots allow you to play any style and kick it into overdrive at the push of a knob. (Value: $399)

This black tolex Epiphone Les Paul Hardshell Case is just what you need to protect your Les Paul guitar from the rigors of the road. The plush-lined, hardshell case serves as a shock absorber with an inner compartment to hold extra strings, straps, picks and slides. (Value: $130)

The Strymon Deco Tape Saturation and Doubletracker delay pedal adds odd-order harmonic saturation and classic tape effects to your live and studio sound without the maintenance of the old tape effects machines. With the Deco, you can dial in rich harmonics, double your sound, thicken it up with natural detuning, and you can even add auto flanging, chorusing and tape delay.  (Value: $299)

The Canary Cables Pedalboard kit was designed specifically with audio fidelity, durability, and convenience in mind. The low-capacitance, studio-grade cable is ultra-pliable for clean cable management, and is manufactured with oxygen-free copper and braided shielding for quiet operation and lasting durability. Canary Solderless cables are road tested and proven by the most punishing tour schedules and the most discriminating artists. (Value: $49.95)

Canary Cables’ 10’ Premium Instrument Cable with Auto-Mute Switch is the perfect cable to use from your instrument to your pedalboard. This durable, flexible premium cable is made to last and the specially designed automatic mute switch ensures there is no grounding noise pop when you plug in or unplug from your amp. The oxygen-free copper core and conductive PE/PE isolation provides flexibility, durability and clear transparent tone. (Value: $14.97)

The Canary Cables 20’ Professional Instrument Cable with Gold Tip Plug are specially designed, larger diameter, low capacitance cables optimized for longer runs in the studio or on the stage. Tapered and rounded low profile plugs will not scratch your guitar. High quality gold plugs conform to Switchcraft 1/4" jack specifications for a sure fit. (Value: $16.97)

Check out Canary Cables, and the Canary Cables Artists at Canary Cables Canary Cables. 

Guitar players spend a lot of time thinking about their gear, from instruments to amps to pedals and beyond. But what often gets lost in all this deep thought about the equipment you use to transmit your sound is an understanding of the very thing that connects all the components involved in that sound to one another—your cables. 

Contrary to general perception, all cables are not created equal. After putting so much time, effort and passion into crafting the ideal guitar sound, it would be a waste to have it marred by an inferior cable picking up electrostatic interference or sapping the top end from your tone.

With Canary Cables, you never have to worry about your cable lead getting in the way of your sound. As Archer Nation guitarist Dylan Rose points out, a Canary cable has all of your tone needs covered, starting with superior shielding that protects from and diffuses static electricity buildup. 

Canary Cables are also extremely low capacitance, transmitting a pristine and clear signal from guitar to amp without any treble loss or muddiness, even with longer cable runs.

“If you’re somebody that always uses 25, 30, 40, 50 foot cables because you’re playing on large stages, it’s even more important to have a nice cable because you want to start with the lowest amount of capacitance per foot,” Rose says. “If you have a long cable the damage done is much less than if you started with an inexpensive one that’s just going to hammer your tone yard by yard by yard.”

But all the superior shielding and low capacitance isn’t worth much if your cable isn’t durable. Whether it’s being stomped on, dragged across stages or wrapped up and thrown in the back of a van at the end of a gig, a guitar lead take a lot of abuse on a nightly basis.

If you don’t want your cables breaking down almost immediately, you need a product built with strong materials and connectors. Canary Cables deliver quality sound and durability that guitarists can depend on night after night, ensuring you always “Get Heard With The Bird.”

Website: www.canarycables.com
Website: www.canarycables.com/artists
Instagram: @canarycables
Instagram: @archernation
Facebook: @canarycables
Facebook: @archernation

As any keen pedalboard architect knows, low-profile patch cables are the key to fitting more stompboxes in the space you’ve got, and now Ernie Ball has thrown its hat into the ring with the Flat Ribbon Patch Cables.

EB reckon the cables’ flexible design means you can bend them in any angle that suits your pedals’ inputs and outputs, while minimal yet sturdy connectors ensure a secure connection.

Signal quality should be up to scratch, too, with metal housing, improved shielding over traditional patch cables, a PVC jacket exterior and built-in strain relief.

Flat Ribbon Patch Cables are available now in 3”, 6” and 24” sizes, starting from $9.99. See Ernie Ball for more details.

NAMM 2020: Virtually every electric guitar player is gonna need a few cables, and Mogami makes some of the best of them.

That's why, during this year's NAMM show, we made sure to stop by Mogami's booth to see what's new with the company. While we were there, Mogami's Phil Tennison happily obliged our curiosity, showing off the company's durable new wares. 

Manufactured in Nagano, Japan, Mogami cables are known for their durability. "In my 23 years with them (Mogami), I've yet to see a single defective patch cable," Tennison told us.  

You can see for yourself in the video above, and be sure to stop by our NAMM hub for all the latest on the coolest new guitar gear.

Netherlands-based audio product company JackSavior has launched a Kickstarter campaign for its newly-developed Black Edition guitar cable.

The company advertises the offering, which is designed with the wires connected inside its plug, as 10 times stronger than a typical audio jack.

The Black Edition boasts a 10-foot braided cable with a 1/4-inch JackSavior black-nickel-plated plug, the latter providing optimal signal transfer and, just as important, a rather cool look.

Furthermore, JackSavior promises the plug’s smaller and more flexible design will prevent it from breaking the output jack of an amp or instrument.

JackSavior's Kickstarter for the Black Edition cable has already surpassed its pledge goal. To learn more, head over to JackSavior. 

Canary Cables has introduced its premium line of professional grade Pedalboard, Stage and Studio cables designed with the specific needs of the working musician in mind. 

The Canary Cables Solderless Pedalboard Kit provides 16 connectors and 16 feet of premium low capacitance cable, allowing you to clean up your pedalboard and easily patch in gear at a moment’s notice. The kit includes everything required to make custom length pedalboard cables at home or on the road. Top-quality braided copper shield and polyester foil inner shield provide low capacitance noiseless operation that preserves your tone, night after night. 

The Canary Cables Stage and Studio cables answer requests from the most demanding touring musicians. The beefy 7.5mm cables are made of specially selected high-quality PVC to provide flexibility and durability for the studio and the stage. The gold plug tips won’t tarnish and they conform to standard Switchcraft connector specifications for a snug fit, and the tapered and rounded low profile plugs will not scratch your guitar. The Oxygen Free Copper core and conductive PE / PE Isolation provides clear, transparent tone so you can perform your best. Canary Cables are road tested and proven by the most punishing tour schedules and the most discriminating artists.

An exciting addition to the Canary Cables Stage and Studio cables line are the Canary "Auto-Mute" Switch cables. In addition to all of the exceptional characteristics of the Canary Cables Stage and Studio line, the Auto-Mute Switch eliminates that unwanted “pop” when plugging in or unplugging.

The entire cable line comes with a 3-year warranty against manufacturer's defect. Canary Cables promotes and supports responsible use of our natural resources including tone wood certification and preservation programs, as well as reforestation projects to keep musicians rocking for years to come. 

Canary Cables street prices:

• 10 ft Professional Studio & Stage Cables: $13.97
• 20 ft Professional Studio & Stage Cables: $16.97
• 10 ft Studio & Stage Cables with Auto-Mute Switch: $14.97 (Straight - Straight plug), $15.97 (Straight - Right Angle plug)
• Solderless Pedalboard Kit; 16 plugs and 6 feet of cable: $49.95

Head over to canarycables.com/reviews to see what touring musicians are saying about the cables.

Summer NAMM 2019: PRS has introduced a new line of Classic Series Cables. The instrument and speaker cables feature “carefully tuned capacitance, designed specifically to carry a clear, musical signal” from the guitar, according to the company.

The cables feature spiral-shielding for low handling noise, as well as ends with wrapped solder joints under the barrel for added durability.

Offerings include 6” patch, 5’ and 10’ straight instrument, 10’ angle/straight, 18’ straight, 18’ angle/straight, 25’ straight and 25’ angle/straight, beginning at $19.99.

For more information, head to PRS Accessories.

RockBoard has announced its new Gold Series Flat Looper/Switcher Connector Cables.

From the company: Designed to be extra flat and space-saving for optimal use of pedalboard real estate, the Gold Series Flat Looper/Switcher Connector Cables feature extra thin angled plugs and compact straight plugs ideal for use with looper/switchers. Plus, the cables' slim rectangular body design efficiently prevents cable tangle and breakage.

Additional features include gold-plated contacts and plug housings, plus a double shielding of braided copper wire and aluminum foil that shields the flexible copper conductor core from high and low frequency interference. The Gold Series Flat Looper/Switcher Cables guarantee top signal quality and will keep your setup neat and tidy. 

Features: 

• High quality double shielded flat patch cables with rectangular profile
• Compact and super flat plugs
• Gold-plated connectors
• Metal plug housings
• Flexible copper conductor (20 x 0.12 mm / 36 AWG)
• 90 % braided tinned copper shielding (4 x 16 x 0.12 mm / 36 AWG)
• Additional aluminum foil shielding
• PE (polyethylene) signal insulation
• PVC cable mantle
• Capacitance less than 10 pF/decimeter
• Conductor resistance less than 10 mOhm/decimeter
• Angled 6.3 mm mono audio plugs
• Operating temperature -15° C to +70° C / 5° F to 158° F
• Outer dimensions cable (W x H) 7 x 3 mm / 1/4" x 1/8" (rectangular)
• Outer dimensions plugs (W x H) 12.5 x 7.5 mm / 1/2" x 5/16", 12.5 x 12.5 mm / 1/2" x 1/2" (straight)
• Black with gold-plated plug housings
• Length 20 cm / 7 7/8"

The cables will be available later this month in four lengths; 20 cm, 40 cm, 60 cm and 100 cm. 

For more, head over to rockboard.de. 

RockBoard has introduced the Power Ace Voltage Doubler and Current Doubler adapter cables, each featuring super compact, high quality plugs and sockets. The Y cables are exclusively tailored for bridging outputs on isolated power supplies, such as the soon-to-be-released ISO Power Block V10.

Both adapter cables can be inserted with their black plugs into two isolated outputs of a power supply, while an optional RockBoard Flat Patch cable is used to connect the blue or white jack to the pedal, which is to be supplied with either more voltage (Voltage Doubler, blue) or higher current (Current Doubler, white).

With the RockBoard Power Ace Voltage Doubler Y cable, two isolated 9V outputs of a power supply can be bridged to one 18V output. This can be used for pedals with higher voltage for more headroom or for pedals that can only be operated with higher voltages such as 18V. Available in July.

The RockBoard Current Doubler allows for two isolated current outputs of the same voltage to be bridged to combine their current output (mA) for current hungry pedals. For example, the RockBoard® Power Ace Current Doubler Y cable can be used to combine two 9V 150 mA current outputs into one 9V 300 mA output. Available in July.

Power Ace Voltage Doubler Features:
• 2 x straight 2.1 x 5.5 mm barrel plugs (black) wired in parallel to 1 x 2.1 x 5.5 mm barrel socket (blue)
• Cable length between plug & socket 20 cm / 7 7/8”
• Plug dimensions (L x W x H) 20.5 x 11 x 8.5 mm / 13/16” x 7/16” x 5/16”

Current Doubler Features:
• 2 x straight 2.1 x 5.5 mm barrel plugs (black) wired in parallel to 1 x 2.1 x 5.5 mm barrel socket (white)
• Cable length between plug & socket 20 cm / 7 7/8"
• Plug dimensions (L x W x H) 20.5 x 11 x 8.5 mm / 13/16" x 7/16" x 5/16

For more information about RockBoard, head over to rockboard.de.

Austrian company Songbird FX has unveiled its new Birdcord USB voltage converter cables.

Available in four different formats, the Birdcord converts 5V USB into 6V, 9V, 12V or 18V DC voltage via a circuit hidden in the USB plug. This means that the Birdcord can be used with any musical device that features a DC jack and a power draw of less than nine watts.

Birdcords can also be combined with USB power banks, so no need for power outlets!

Each Birdcord costs around $19. 

You can get them directly from songbirdfx.com.

Xotic has announced its new All-Brass patch cables. 

The company's All-Brass technology provides a low-noise to high performance ratio to achieve the highest levels of transparency and maximize the user's audio signal. 

The All-Brass jacks, engineered with brass and nickel-plated, ensure optimal signal transfer with low capacitance for a clear, more defined sound. Designed to save space, the cable's thin pancake-style shape frees up pedalboard room for any  effects aficionado.

Xotic’s stress relief feature holds the cable in place for superior durability, preventing breakdowns on the road and in the studio. The nickel-plated layer provides protection from corrosion, increases connectivity and allows the cable to lock into  any pedal with ease. 

Patch cables are available through Xotic dealers and the Xotic online shop in 6" and 12", single and 2-packs.

For more info on the cables, head on over to xotic.us.

Ernie Ball has launched an all-new line of cables. Watch the video above to learn more.

The new Ernie Ball cables feature high-quality designs and are made with superior components that are built to last. Players can choose over 31 designs from their original classic, braided, patch, and vintage coiled cables, plus speaker and microphone cables and more.

Available in a variety of colors, Ernie Ball braided, coiled instrument cables feature dual-conductors that deliver reliably clear tone with crisp highs, tight mids, and rich harmonics, along with multiple shielding materials that preserve the signal with low handling noise.

Get the complete details and find out more at ernieball.com/guitar-accessories/instrument-cables.

One fun thing about being a guitarist is that there's always something new or different—a little-known pedal, a new amp, an under-the-radar capo or accessory—just around the next corner.

As our old friend Philip McKnight points out in the early 2016 video below, the same goes for cables.

In the clip, McKnight—who happens to own a music shop—lets us know about two cables every guitarist should add to their arsenal.

The first one, which connects an external battery directly to your pedal (it's a tuner in the video), can be a big help when you want to try out a pedal at home or in a shop, or for when you have an unforeseen pedalboard issue at a gig and need a quick fix. The second item is an unassuming extension cable that can be put to ingenious use, as Philip demonstrates.

Take a look, and as always, visit Phillip’s YouTube channel for more of his videos.

Ernie Ball has announced a number of new products for 2018, among them two new picks, and a new line of instrument and audio cables.

The new Everlast picks are manufactured from highly durable Delrin material for a more secure non-slip surface. They are available in eight different thicknesses that are fluorescent color-coded as follows: 0.48mm (Blue); 0.60mm (Pink); 0.73mm (Orange); 0.88mm (Green); 1.0MM (Purple); 1.14mm (Red); 1.5mm (Yellow); and 2.0mm (Teal). The Everlast Picks are also available in 12-pack bags.

They will be available starting at a street price of $4.99 SRP/$7.99 MAP.

Ernie Ball Prodigy Picks

Ernie Ball's new Prodigy picks are available in two sizes: the Prodigy Pick (Standard) and Prodigy Pick Mini, both offered in two thicknesses: 1.5mm (Black) and 2.0mm (white).

The picks are made from wear-resistant Delrin material for a more secure, non-slip surface. The beveled edge and sharp point allow for less drag, added articulation and precise control while playing.

Features include:
• Matte black Delrin finish 1.5mm thick
• Matte white Delrin Finish 2.0mm thick
• Non-slip surface
• Sizes: Prodigy standard / Prodigy mini thicknesses: 1.5mm / 2.0mm
• Strong, durable construction
• Sharp edge for precise control
• Beveled edge for articulation
• Available in six-pack bags

The picks are available at a street price of $9.99 per six-pack.

Ernie Ball Instrument and Audio Cables

Ernie Ball's new instrument, microphone, patch and speaker cables are ultra-durable, include a 99.95% oxygen-free copper conductor, are dual-shielded for durability and low noise and come with a limited lifetime warranty.

The instrument cables feature a design made with components that are built to last, delivering reliably clear tone with crisp highs, tight mids and rich harmonics. Multiple shielding materials preserve the signal with low handling noise, and the PVC exterior or wide selection of braided jacket exteriors provides a long-lasting, tangle-resistant experience.

Ernie Ball speaker cables feature dual stranded 16-gauge conductors, delivering a reliably clear signal, and a durable PVC jacket exterior that ensures long-lasting performance.

Ernie Ball microphone cables feature dual conductors, delivering a reliably clear signal and natural frequency response. Multiple shielding materials preserve the signal with low handling noise, and the durable PVC jacket exterior ensures long-lasting performance.

Cable features:
• Ultra-durable, flexible construction
• Noise-free design: dual-shielding protection (Instrument mic and patch cable)
• 99.95% oxygen-free copper to resist corrosion
• Flexible, tangle-resistant performance
• Clear tone with crisp highs, tight mids, and rich harmonics (Instrument and patch cable)
• Roadworthy construction
• Limited lifetime warranty

Ernie Ball instrument cables come in 10-foot, 20-foot and 30-foot lengths. A braided instrument cable is available in a 25-foot length. Instrument cable pricing varies from $19.99—$39.99 SRP/MAP.

Ernie Ball microphone cables are available in a 25-foot length with pricing of $29.99 SRP/MAP.

Ernie Ball speaker cables are available in 3-foot and 6-foot lengths with prices varying from $12.99—$14.99 SRP/MAP.

Ernie Ball patch cables come in 6-inch, 1-foot and 1.5-feet in length and are available starting at $6.99 SRP/MAP.

For more info, stop by ernieball.com.

Morley, makers of pedals, switches and devices for musicians, has announced it will be releasing Morley Instrument cables and guitar and bass strings at the 2016 Winter NAMM Show.

The cables are hand-made using quality cable and connectors. Each is precision cut, hand soldered, assembled and tested one cable at a time in the U.S.

Five offerings are being released at NAMM: 15-ft Studio, 8-ft Studio, 15-ft Performance, 8-ft Performance and 6-inch FX Jumper. Studio cables use Neutrik connectors while the Performance cables use Switchcraft connectors.

“Our main goal was to create great quality cables in usable lengths that were reasonably priced,” says Morley Sales Manager Bill Wenzloff, “The most important thing to us is providing quality tools for musicians to create music with.”

Morley Boutique Strings are also hand-made, one string at a time in the U.S. We choose superior quality wire and use time-tested winding practices, which produces a better-sounding, longer-lasting string. “The attention to detail is what makes the difference,” adds Director of Engineering Scott Flesher. “Every aspect of the manufacturing is scrutinized; so much so that we actually hand-write the string gauge on each envelope!”

Morley boutique strings are available in Electric (9, 10, 11), Acoustic (Phosphorous Bronze 11, 12), Bass (40, 45, 50 in nickel or stainless steel). Morley strings and cables are not meant to be the most inexpensive around, because you deserve better than that.

For more information, visit morleypedals.com.

Guitar World’s 2016 Winter NAMM Show Coverage

Check out the NAMM 2016 section of GuitarWorld.com to keep up with our latest gear announcements, photos and videos. You also might want to consider following Guitar World via Twitter, Instagram and Facebook, because that's where most of the gear pics will be posted during show hours.

•GuitarWorld.com: NAMM Show coverage
•Twitter: NAMM Show photos and news
•Facebook: NAMM Show photos and news
•Instagram: NAMM Show photos and more
•YouTube: NAMM Show videos.

Canare is a name I first began hearing about from engineers and studio geeks as their source for the parts needed to build cables from scratch.

I've always admired this clique, but I’m the type who lets his mind wander. I’d be at a gig, mid-song, wondering if I soldered my cable correctly.

So when I heard Canare offered pre-assembled instrument cables, I knew I’d be getting the quality my recording buddies have been bragging about without having to worry if I tinned the tip of my soldering iron properly!

The GR instrument cable series takes the famous Canare GR6 cable and parks an F15 plug on each end. The core of the cable uses a rope conductor technique of a center conductor with seven smaller layers surrounding it. This offers durability while keeping the cable flexible enough for your guitar-related antics. Outward, the cable boasts a strip of insulation, a layer of carbon plastic shield, a braided shield and finally a jacket made of a PVC compound.

Even with this cable being more secure than Fort Knox, it is incredibly flexible compared to my other cables. The F15 plugs gripped everything I plugged them into, and firmly. The ends screw off for easy maintenance if you ever need it. The cables come with a limited one-year warranty. Another nice touch is the included Velcro cable tie.

I’ve been using this cable everywhere for the past few weeks. In the gigging world, it didn’t tangle up on me, the jacket isn’t too slick to step on, and at the end of the night it seemed to coil up nicely while staying relatively clean.

As far as tone, there was no night-and-day difference compared to other quality cables, just a balanced overall sound without any unwanted noise.

Web: http://www.canare.com/
Street Price: GR20F 20-foot cable, $45

You can't believe everything you read on the Internet, but Billy Voight is a gear reviewer, bassist and guitarist from Pennsylvania. He has Hartke bass amps and Walden acoustic guitars to thank for supplying some of the finest gear on his musical journey. Need Billy's help in creating noise for your next project? Drop him a line at thisguyonbass@gmail.com.

“I forget who makes those orange-colored amps,” said no one ever.

The iconic Orange Amplification has been building amps since the late '60s. They recently expanded into the cable market, and their website lists speaker, instrument and XLR cables. I recently checked out the speaker and instrument cables.

Like the amps’ signature Tolex, the orange armor-plated nylon sleeve will catch your eye. After a few weeks of solid gigging in, believe me when I say, not the cleanest of dive bars, the structure and appearance of the cables has held up well. The design of the cables, along with the included Velcro cable tie, keeps tangling to a minimum.

The speaker and instrument cables boast high-end Neutrik cable ends. (Note: Straight and right-angle gold-plated ends are available.) Last but not least, these lifetime-guaranteed cables are built around oxygen-free copper leads to ward off any of that pesky, unwanted tone loss.

Website: http://www.orangeamps.com
Retail price: Prices vary, $45 to $76

You can't believe everything you read on the Internet, but Billy Voight is a gear reviewer, bassist and guitarist from Pennsylvania. He has Hartke bass amps and Walden acoustic guitars to thank for supplying some of the finest gear on his musical journey. Need Billy's help in creating noise for your next project? Drop him a line at thisguyonbass@gmail.com.

For guitar players, quality cables are often overlooked. We are always looking to buy the best guitar, the best amp and the best-sounding pedals we can afford.

Then, once we got $3K invested in our gear, we go out and connect everything with cheap guitar cables.

The truth is, guitar and speaker cables matter -- a lot.

With a guitar signal, you are indeed as strong as your weakest link. I have seen guitar players connect their guitar set-ups with the lowest-quality guitar cable you could ever buy. It is pointless to buy a great instrument and try to carry its sound across with something that is not only not up to the task, but will actually work against it.

No matter how many noise gates or signal maximizers you connect in your signal chain, it will not help. The bottom line is, you need good cables.

Let us rethink this.

Leave The Screaming to the Fans. A good cable will be quiet on stage and in your practice room -- sometimes so quiet that the noise gate you purchased will be obsolete. The only feedback coming out of your guitar will the one you intend on.

Don’t Be A Singer. A good cable will not be microphonic. What I mean by that is that when you run around with your guitar, no strange noises, hollow sounds, pops or feedback will be coming through your guitar. If you take the cable plugged into your guitar (and amp) and whip it across the floor, it should stay quiet. If you hear things, it is microphonic. This is not a good thing for a cable, especially if you play loud and with distortion.

Built to Last. A good cable will last for years. It is true. A good guitar cable will last for years to come. By paying the higher price, you are allowing the cable manufacturer to use higher-end jacks, components and the cable itself. I have some patch and guitar cables in my set-up that I have been using for, get ready for this, 12 years! Yes, you read that right. They have been around the world more than few times and sound as good as new. Now, that is a lot of savings in the end versus buying a new cable every six months.

The Full Spectrum. Most importantly, quality cables will sound great. You will hear clear highs; you will hear well-defined lows and everything in between, loud and clear. Did you hear me say loud and clear? Good cables will carry and support the tone of your guitar. The notes will sound cleaner, fuller and with more sustain. The last sentence should have sold you by now. The difference is super noticeable.

If your cables are not of good quality, consider getting a better product. And give the bad cables as a gift to your keyboard player.

Let’s talk about the simple things you can finally do to extend the life of your good cables.

Take Pride In Your Metal. Before and during each touring cycle, during studio work or every few months or so, I always ask my tech to clean the ends of my guitar and speaker cables.

If you look at some of your cables right now, you will notice their tips might be no longer as shiny as you remember them. There is a reason for it. I found out more by asking cable guru Jean-Marc of Intex Cables what he thinks. He said the environment affects metals (steel, brass, copper, silver, etc.), and they corrode. This corrosion causes intermittents (scratchy sounds) in the cable. He recommended using #00 steel wool to get rid of the corrosion and blemishes on the connector once every few months.

I also will add that in between the steel wool treatment, it is important to wipe down all the ends with a small amount of hand soap and a terry towel (or something similar). I promise: You will notice a difference. While at it, wipe down the rest of the cable.

Don’t Cook -- Rock! If you cables look like spaghetti, you need to get it straight. Literally. Then get your cables in neat loops and tie each one up with Velcro. A good idea is to use three colors of Velcro. Each color for speaker, long and short connector cables. This will make your set-ups quicker and more professional. Nothing speaks amateur like the dude who pulls out a bundle of tied up cables from a suitcase. Don’t be that guy. You are not cooking dinner; you are here to rock.

You also can bundle several cables together with one of those larger orange cable tiers you can buy at home-improvement centers.

Keep It Clean. While making your trip to the home improvement center, pick up some Goof Off (and some gloves). Goof Off is a cool product that takes away gunk, dirt and sticky stuff from surfaces. You can dilute Goof Off with water and use it to wipe down your cables every so often. I cannot stand dirty guitars or cables, so I have them wiped very often. There is nothing worse than grabbing a guitar cable that is dirty and slimy and then picking up the guitar to play. No thanks.

While we are talking about this, do not use duct tape to tape down your cables. It leaves a sticky mess and makes you look like an amateur. Research a few online retailers that service the touring and movie industries. Then buy a couple of rolls of Pro Gaf tape. This tape is easy to tear by hand, leaves no mess and is very strong. You need this. You will never use anything else after you have experienced the power of the Gaf Tape.

Keep It Short, Stupid. Lastly, keep your cables as short as you need to get the job done. Even with good cable, you do not want to keep the length too long. For effect pedals, you need only a foot of cable in-between. Get some good ones and not the 10-in-a-pack-for-$5 patch cables. The longest cable I would ever recommend is 30 feet. Remember, this is times two if you run your pedal board to your amp. If you play smaller venues, cut it down. This means better sound for you and less clutter on stage. Unless you want to trip your singer. I have other tricks for that one.

The same concept goes for a speaker cable. Buy a well-constructed, thick cable, and only as long as you need.

Use your ears and follow your heart. See you next time.

Polish-born Metal Mike Chlasciak has recorded or performed with heavy metal greats Rob Halford, Sebastian Bach, Bruce Dickinson and Axl Rose. Mike is the long-time guitarist for Judas Priest frontman Rob Halford's solo endeavor, Halford. Mike's new album, The Metalworker, is due in spring. For more info, check out his official website and visit him on Twitter.

Just the other day at a rehearsal preparing for a tour, my fellow guitarist asked me if the guitar cable I was using was the same one I’d had “forever.”

I realized then that I had indeed been using that same cable for at least the past three years on tours around the world without it once ever giving me a problem. Why was that? I realized that with some basic cable care, I’d probably saved myself some money -– and more importantly -– embarrassing cable failure during a performance.

Follow these easy steps and you may just be able to do the same:

01. When pulling your cable out of a jack, always pull it from the barrel itself; never yank on the actual cable.

02. Get in the habit of looping your cable through the bottom end of your strap, and through the handle of your amp. This little bit of slack will not only help take the tension off where the cable is soldered to the jack; it also will keep you plugged in, should your cable get stepped on and yanked. You will also avoid the possibility of damaging your input jacks or bending the barrel of your jack.

03. I only lay out my cables after all the gear has been put in its proper place onstage and everything is miked up. Amps rolling over cables or folks stepping on them is a sure way to shorten the life of your cord.

04. I’m a big fan of coily cables. I never get tangled in them or step on them; they go where you go. Besides, they look cool!

05. Try right-angle cords. They can help take some stress off the jack if it gets yanked.

06. Learn how to wrap your cables properly. Take a few minutes and do a search online for how to do this properly. There are a lot of helpful videos folks have posted. It’s easy, and again, it will save you money and face down the road.

That’s it for now. Stay tuned, stay plugged in, and see you soon,

Jim @ Guitar Bar

Guitar Bar, at 160 First St. in Hoboken, New Jersey, 201-222-0915, has been serving New York City and New Jersey musicians since 1996. Vintage, new and used guitars, effects, amps and other cool stuff abound, and expert repairs and lessons are done on site. Owner James Mastro is an active touring and recording musician whose credits include Ian Hunter, Patti Smith, John Cale, Health & Happiness Show, The Bongos, Garland Jeffreys and Donovan, to name a few. Ask him gear-related questions (or anything!) by commenting on this and future blog posts.

One of the most overlooked areas when it comes to home recording studios is cables.

Many of us take this for granted; after all, a cable is something that just makes possible a connection between one piece of gear to another. In other words, it’s what makes possible the flow of an audio signal. Yet having a knowledge and basic understanding of cables can help play a major part in successfully achieving your sonic goals.

If a cable is noisy, for example, that noise can seep into the recording process and can ruin a perfectly good take or, worse still, turn a good recording into a bad one. Cables can affect one’s tone as well, in minute amounts, so it’s important to have good quality cables and spares available on hand if needed. I’d like to just cover some of the basic elements that one needs to know about cables.

Cables come in a number of different variations, the most common being XLR (three prong, usually your most common microphone cable), TRS (tip, ring, sleeve), TS (tip, ring) and RCA combinations. Cables also come in either balanced or unbalanced.

Understanding the difference between a balanced cable and an unbalanced cable is quite easy, and I hope this explains it as simply as possible. A signal is sent through two conductors or wires (+ and -). An unbalanced cable only has two, tip and sleeve (TS) while a balanced cable has three wires, tip, ring and sleeve (TRS). + and - go to tip and ring.

The sleeve wire is a meshed wire that surrounds the signal wire, thus "shielding" it from interference. The reason the term "balanced" is used instead of the term "shielded," is because that would cause much confusion. The - on an unbalanced cable is often referred to as a "shield" as it is wrapped around the + "tip" wire to somewhat stop noise. So a balanced cable is merely an extra layer of shielding.

So the next time you’re in your studio, take a look at your cables, make sure they’re all in good working order, listen for any untold noise in your signal chain, and if there is any, check your cable lines and make sure the connections are all patched in their proper combinations.

Happy recording!

Joe Matera is an Australia-based rock guitarist who has played in countless original and cover bands over the past 20 years. As a solo instrumental artist, his current release is an original guitar instrumental track called "Face Off'," now available on iTunes. He also makes a guest appearance playing a blazing guitar solo on UK thrash metal veterans Atomkraft's cover of the Thin Lizzy classic "Cold Sweat," which is out this summer. He also is a Guitar World magazine contributor. For more info, visit joematera.com.

The other day I was talking to Paul Riario, Guitar World’s gear editor. The subject came around to why women don’t buy more gear. My reply to Riario was, “You’re right. I would buy a new pair of shoes before I picked up a new guitar accessory.”

Eureka! I thought. There’s a great article for GuitarWorld.com: guitar accessories women might like. But sadly, as I began to research that article, a few truths became clear to me.

First, taking any piece of gear and making it in pink, and then saying this is now for girls and women just sucks. We don’t need it to be pink, we just need it to be cool. Well made, stylish, well thought out, and of course, it has to do what it supposed to do really, really well.

Good product design isn’t about changing the color, it’s about investigating what is appealing to your target consumer and then creating accordingly.

Second, there is a dearth of great product design for accessories in our industry, period. Yes, there are some very cool guitar straps from Jodi Head, Levy’s and lots of other makers. And some very clever tuners and lots of pick options. But what else?

How about a guitar cable in houndstooth with a built-in cable tie, or a really well made black guitar bag with leopard print piping and an accessory organizer pocket? Or a sleek, retro-looking, powder coated guitar stand with a built-in pick holder in vintage pastels. Really, how hard would it be to take the stuff that’s made right now and just make it a little bit cooler? I would pay a little more for something a bit sleeker, and I bet a lot of guitarists out there would too -– both women and men.

Look, I’m not saying there isn’t anything cool and well-designed out there. I’m just saying, in an industry that is largely centered on how cool you are today, we could do a little better.

Please, please, please, if you know of any accessories you think are particularly well designed, share them in the comment box below. And then maybe, one day, I can do the stylish accessories article that I set out to do in the first place.

P.S. I did come across two product lines that I thought hit the design mark square on the head. The first carries unique wall sculpture that hangs behind your guitar and frames your instrument. Then when you take your guitar down to play, it’s still a slick piece of art. A bit pricey, but the idea just rocks. Check it out at axetotem.com

... and then there's a sweet and extremely portable guitar stand for us regular guys (or gals) at cooperstand.com.

Laura B. Whitmore is a singer/songwriter based in the San Francisco bay area. A veteran music industry marketer, she has spent over two decades doing marketing, PR and artist relations for several guitar-related brands including Marshall and VOX. Her company, Mad Sun Marketing, represents 65amps, Acoustic Bass Amps, Agile Partners, Guitar World and many more. Laura was instrumental in the launch of the Guitar World Lick of the Day app. She is the lead singer for the rock band Summer Music Project. More at mad-sun.com.

NOTHING IS MORE embarrassing than having the cable jerked out of your guitar by some bumblefooted vocalist. Even worse is when that action adds injury to insult by damaging the output jack on your guitar or the input jack on your amp.

• The Jodavi ZZYZX Snap Jack guitar cable offers an ingenious solution to this potential problem by using a magnetic design
• that allows the jack to detach from the cable only when it is subjected to excess tension. Even better, the jack detaches without making any popping or screeching noises you'd normally encounter when unplugging a standard guitar cable from an amp, allowing you to change guitars onstage in silence.

Snap Jack cables are available in 15- and 20-foot lengths with
straight or angled jacks, and the package includes extra jack tips, which are also sold separately. The cable provides the sound quality of a premium cable and its rugged design can withstand years of bumbling mishaps. The jack tip detaches with just the right amount of pressure that makes it easy to switch instruments but difficult to unplug accidentally.